I never saw a child carrying or using a mobile phone in Bhutan. And even when grown-ups were using them, no child seemed interested. They just smiled, and played with their dolls, bicycle wheels or footballs…
Always smiling with that open face you never see in the western world any more.
I had a dream
The Paro Dzong is bigger than you first think. As I wrote before, it houses an administration as well as a monastic part.
We walked back there in the afternoon during the Tsechu, to take a closer look.
1974 Bhutan opened up to the world, and some years ago they invited the great leaders of the outside world, to show their winning concept. Not all leaders came, of course, but those who listened must have been impressed. This tiny Himalayan nation, surrounded by much larger countries with massive populations and economies – seem to stand tall in their beliefs and try to follow the road chosen.
Bhutan combines Gross National Happiness (explained further down) with democracy and Buddhism. A concept they try to convey to the world as well. In fact, the Resolution of Happiness was adopted by the UN’s National Assembly in 2011, leading to World Happiness Day now being celebrated across the globe annually on March 20.
The Watch Tower used to house the National Museum, but the tower was damaged in an earthquake, so the museum was now set up in a building nearby.
Going down again we passed some sellers. Their hats and clothes tell about their origin – they are Layaps, living in the north western parts of Bhutan, at almost 4000 meters. Until the 1980s the Layaps lived in complete isolation from the rest of the country.
A rapidly growing economy has resulted in increased consumerism – leading to imports mostly from India. The government decided to place a ban on many imports, including cars, but it remains to be seen if globalization and everything in its wake can be sufficiently kept at bay. Let us hope so. The King and the Government seem very determined.
Modernity is coming though. Cell phones and heavy camera equipment already in Paro – and dogs on leash in Thimpu. But – Thimpu is the only capital in the world without traffic lights. There is still a policeman in a box, in the middle of the street, gracefully waving the traffic in the right direction.
Gross National Happiness (GNH) in short, is:
According to our local guide, Rinzen, there is a validation before a decision is taken, and after the implementation of it. If people are not getting/did not get happier out of this – the concept will be dropped.
Bhutan is the world’s only carbon-negative country. Just Imagine. And, this is true.
At 2200 meters above sea level, Paro hosts Bhutan’s international airport and about 15000 citizens. A charming town with its most famous landmark about 10 kilometres outside town: Taktshang (Tiger’s Nest) Hermitage on the face of a sheer 1,000-metre (3,281-foot) cliff. This was our goal for the last day of our tour.
Street life is rather lively, and throughout our trip, the towns and villages were constantly expanding.
Architecture is restricted to the old ways, and no matter the material, you have to build and decorate your house according to tradition.
Roadwork everywhere too. The two, three roads connecting the villages of the valley was built by India. The workers stay for many years to keep up the road quality.
The bridge over to Rinpung Dzong. The Dzong (a fortress/monastery) was built in the beginning of the tenth century. The famous festival, Paro Tsechu, is held here every year – and we visited on our first day in Bhutan.
For Cee this week – a Bhutanese woman trekking up to the monastery, Tiger’s Nest, 3200 meters up. Thin air and tough, steep paths. But she was faster than most of us and had no difficulties whatsoever, it seemed. She offered me some nuts to keep up the pace. So sweet – they all were. I bet they all smiled to themselves seeing us westerners sweating and panting…
She was 76
We arrived in Bhutan during Paro Tsechu – one of the many colourful dance festivals in honour of Guru Rinpoche, one of Bhutan’s most important historical and religious figures. He visited Bumthang in AD 746, and is said to then have introduced Buddhism to Bhutan. Read more about Tsechus here.
Rinpung Dzong is beautifully situated in the valley. It was built in 1644 to defend the Paro valley from invasions by Tibet. Like most dzongs, it houses the monastic body, district government offices and the local courts.
During the Tsechu festivals, people come from near and far, all wearing their most beautiful kira (women) and gho (men). It is compulsory for all Bhutanese to wear national dress in schools, government offices and on formal occasions.
The cloth is made from cotton or silk and the patterns are very colourful. The only patterns forbidden are flowered ones, but solid reds and yellow colours are also avoided, because these are colours worn by monks.
When we arrived, there was not much room for sitting close to the dancers…but some shots are acceptable. I spent most of the time helping little old ladies and children to a better view. And taking in the atmosphere!
There are many kinds of mask dances, but I remember clearest the one preparing you for the meeting with fearful creatures the first 49 days after you die. This dance will help you facing them without fear.
There are many pieces included in the dress code, but a very significant part is the scarf: Ordinary male citizens wear a kabney of unbleached white silk, but there are different colours for different ranks. The king, for example, wears saffron. The women wear a cloth sash called a rachu over their left shoulder.
If you look closely, you will see that it is very often the men who are taking care of the little children, carrying them or holding them. Bhutan is very particular about equality.
The Buthanese believe they will create merit by attending the tsechus and watching the ritualized dances. They share their food, exchange news and are surrounded by Buddhist teachings. The highlight is the unfurling of the thondrol, a giant thangka, before sunrise the last day. It is believed that your sins are washed away upon viewing this.
The monks have their own seats, close to the dancers.
Unfortunately we were not at the festival on its last day – so my sins are still with me…
For Cee this week – Kind. To be kind and caring is essential in my life. And so I believe it should be in everyone’s life. A good start is to teach your children to be kind to animals – and to other people of course. But, especially to animals, because animals cannot defend themselves. Humans have always got the upper hand.
The Galapagos Islands shows kind co-existence and its benefits for everyone. And at home, in Sweden, a good example was Mille’s kindness towards the new puppy, Totti. Mille let him do anything without punishing him…Totti thrashed his ears twice with his extremely sharp little teeth. Mille said nothing. Did nothing. We had to go to the vet both times to open his thickened ears and empty them from all that blood.
If you are taught right from the start, you will emerge a kind person throughout life. Being too kind is not the aim, but being Kind.
Leya 
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