Thursday Thoughts – A Last Walk – Until Next Time, Aleksandr!

21 november, 201921 november, 2019 / Leya / 37 kommentarer

For the last hours of our walk together, we understood that Aleksandr had saved…

…some of the very finest of courtyards in Tbilisi. But – what is the finest is of course in the eye of the beholder. First some other special pieces we passed.

The leaning clock tower was created by the renowned Georgian puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze. On the hour, a window opens at the top and an angel strikes the bell. Below the clock, a screen opens and shows the circle of life: boy meets girl, marriage, childbirth and funeral.

Small bags like these were hung out with food for the poor

Colourful ladies were not many…

This courtyard, with a fantastic spiral staircase, was so amazing I had to return here the next day. With some luck, I found it again – but then without any laundry.

Aleksandr had earlier that day shown us some of his artwork and photos, so when we reached this well hidden courtyard – I recognized the spectacular wooden spiral staircase. I took a deep breath and started rather floating than walking in…

…to a dream. Just imagine what this place must have been like – say a hundred years ago… I hope you will enjoy this courtyard gallery of images from different angles – just could not stop myself. We stayed to talk some with the lovely family who lives here now.

They had restored the houses indoors, but the majestic staircase was for the authorities to restore…which unfortunately had not been done. I asked if they still used the staircase – the answer was Yes, and a moment later a man came running down those steps! It did Not look safe. I do hope they will save this architectural treasure for future generations. In Georgia they still have the skills and knowledge – but they should not wait too long.

I hate goodbyes…and with Aleksandr’s passionate soul, this time it was really hard for me. We had to leave him here with his exhibition in his favorite street, next to his favorite balcony. A very special man whom I am very grateful to have met.

Thank You, Aleksandr, for your warm and generous sharing of Tbilisi ♥

Wordless Wednesday

20 november, 201913 november, 2019 / Leya / 16 kommentarer

Thursday Thoughts – A Walk with Aleksandr in Old Tbilisi

14 november, 201919 november, 2019 / Leya / 38 kommentarer

First of all, I want to thank Viveka of myguiltypleasures for inspiring us to go to Georgia. She went there over Christmas and totally fell in love with the city.

The unmistakable charm of the Old Town, the history, the people, the food and wine, brought us here. We stayed for a week, but could easily have stayed longer. I know Viveka is going again this Easter. A bit envious…I am!

We decided to have a guide for one day – a real gentleman, recommended by Viveka, who had accidentally met Aleksandr at the end of her stay. And what he doesn’t know about Old Tblisi (Old Tiflis), its history and architecture – is not worth knowing. Let’s follow him along his favorite streets!

Open any door, and you will either find a staircase or a cat or two…

An old factory yard

The old Caravanseraj from the Silk Road days – imagine the caravan of camels and merchants entering here!

Havana vibes

Tuning

Aleksandr is a well known face in Old Town, and knows every street and every house. He is a former architect – which explains his faiblesse for the Old part of the city.

On the left hand side, according to Alexandr, you see the most beautiful balcony in town. The whole street is very beautiful – but what they are building at the end of this lovely row of balconies – I don’t know…

Around midday it was time to sit down for a glass of wine – resting in the shade. It was an unusually hot day for October, 27 degrees C.

In the streets, children were playing

And more laundry hanging…

…and carpentry

Finally… we were approaching his own favorite, Alexandre Dumas Street. Here the balconies and bay windows seem, if possible, even bigger than in other streets.

The old, cobbled Dumas is rather short and narrow. A document of times gone by – nothing yet demolished, reconstructed or changed. A short glance at Aleksandr, and the light in his eyes revealed just how much he loves his city.

On reaching the end though, we could see newly constructed buildings – and machines working – when the street took a left turn, and changed names.

Somewhere here we found a peaceful place to sit down and rest. Aleksandr’s tour is not over yet, but maybe next Thursday? I hope you enjoyed walking with us – you are very welcome back!

Wordless Wednesday

13 november, 201911 november, 2019 / Leya / 10 kommentarer

Thursday Thoughts – A Day with Georgian Historic Sites

7 november, 20197 november, 2019 / Leya / 28 kommentarer

We decided to take a day out of Tbilisi – for some of Georgia’s old historic sites. Uplistsikhe is an interesting ancient rock-hewn town in eastern Georgia, built on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. It is identified by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in the country.

As our eminent guide, Katie, led us through the remains of this once 20 000 people inhabited town – she told us that even if it was almost destroyed by the Mongolians in the 13th century, the area also suffers from frequent earthquakes, which finally finished its existence.

The town contains various structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages, and is notable for the unique combination of various styles of rock-cut cultures from Anatolia and Iran, as well as the coexistence of pagan and Christian architecture.

At the summit of the complex is a Christian basilica built of stone and brick in the 9th-10th centuries. (Another photo from it last Silent Sunday.)

The quiet interior is in perfect harmony. I felt completely at peace with myself, alone in the natural light, in a translucent sphere.

Archaeological excavations have discovered numerous artifacts of different periods, including gold, silver and bronze jewellery, and samples of ceramics and sculptures. Many of these artifacts are in the safekeeping of the National Museum in Tbilisi.

After this windy adventure, we left for Jvari Monastery (in the header, seen from Svetitskhoveli), whose name is translated as the ”Monastery of the Cross”. Jvari Monastery is a sixth century Georgian Orthodox monastery near Mtskheta, and is listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

Jvari is a rare case of the Early Medieval Georgian church that survived to the present day almost unchanged. The church became the founder of its type, the Jvari type of church architecture, prevalent in Georgia and Armenia.

The monastery stands on the rocky mountaintop at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, overlooking the town of Mtskheta.

Built atop of Jvari Mount (656 m a.s.l.), the monastery is an example of harmonious connection with the natural environment, characteristic to Georgian architecture.

We ventured down to Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta (this city also recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site), one of the oldest cities of Georgia, founded by the ancient Meschian tribes in the 5th century. It was capital of the early Georgian Kingdom of Iberia from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD, and continued to serve as the coronation and burial place for most kings of Georgia until the end of the kingdom in the 19th century.

The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (literally the Cathedral of the Living Pillar) is currently the second largest church building in Georgia, after the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi. Known as the burial site of Christ’s mantle, Svetitskhoveli has long been one of the principal Georgian Orthodox churches in the region. It is considered a masterpiece of the Early and High Middle Ages.

At the end of the day, our lovely, knowledgeable guide, Katie, waited patiently for her ”sheep” to return to their master.

Wordless Wednesday

6 november, 20195 november, 2019 / Leya / 22 kommentarer

Thursday Thoughts – Tbilisi, A Feast for the Eye

17 oktober, 201920 februari, 2020 / Leya / 38 kommentarer

Because of its location on the crossroads between Europe and Asia, and its proximity to the Silk Road, Tbilisi has kept its interest to various global powers. Tbilisi’s diverse history is reflected in its architecture, which is a mix of medieval, neoclassical, Beaux Arts, Art Nouveau, Stalinist and the Modern structures. Only one visit will not be enough to seek out all its secrets.

Historically, Tbilisi has been home to people of multiple cultural, ethnic, and religious backgrounds. You will find Mosques, Churches and Cathedrals side by side, and the people live in peace together.

Walking in the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi, is a walk filled with wonders and harmony. At least if you love architecture, open minded and smiling people, and gentle cats and dogs.

The first thing to learn, is never to pass a gate or a narrow passage without having a look inside. Just quietly walk in, the laundry lady will just smile and give you a nod.

You will always be greatly rewarded. Colours and harmony rules.

And the doors…I know of many who would swoon at the very sight of only one street…

Old iron gates and wooden balconies are characteristic of Tbilisi. I think I have hundreds of balcony images – maybe I will post some more …I cannot get enough of them.

Our first day in the city, we wanted to climb to the medieval Narikala Fortress, to get the best view of the city and the Kura river.

The city’s 1.5 million inhabitants were seeking the shades this hot day, and it really took some effort to walk all those steps. But every minute was a joy, stopping now and then to admire the view and for talking to all the lovely people.

Everywhere being inspected by the friendly cats and dogs of course…

On reaching a bench in the shadow, we had a Swedish ”fika”, admiring the view of the newer part of Tbilisi, the Sioni Cathedral and the Holy Trinity Cathedral.

In the header is the view of Old Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) and the new Peace Bridge reaching over the river Kura.

From the fortress and the slopes of the Botanical Gardens, we finished our first views of this charming and enigmatic city. Hopefully you will want to walk with me again – this is a city filled with art, gentle inhabitants and gorgeous food and wine. A Pearl of cities.

Friendly Friday – Balconies

27 september, 2019 / Leya / 19 kommentarer

Balconies for Friendly Friday – very innovative and fun! Mine are from beautiful Spain and England.

Each week the following bloggers will post a new prompt for ‘Friendly Friday‘:

Something to Ponder About and The Snow Melts Somewhere.

Thursday Thoughts – The Whaling Station

26 september, 201925 september, 2019 / Leya / 18 kommentarer

Hvalfjörður is situated in the west of Iceland, and the fjord is approximately 30 km long and 5 km wide. The place has an interesting history.

During WWII, a naval base of the British and American navies could be found in this fjord. One of the piers built by the United States Navy is today used by the Hvalur whaling company for the processing of fin whales, partially for the domestic market, and mostly for export to Japan. None of this in 2019 though.

The origin of the name Hvalfjörður is uncertain. Certainly today there is no presence of whales in the fjord; while the only whaling station in Iceland is still located here. In the past the fjord also contained many herring fisheries.

Today the old buildings, and some newer ones, are still standing for the workers at the station, even if there were no workers this year. Only goats…

Outside the main building, we came across this lovely man and could ask him about old times, the navy men, the whales and the Japanese workers. In fact, as a young man he had worked as a whaler here himself. Now he was just trying to repair and maintain the houses.

Some of the small houses looked inhabited and we could see through the windows how cosy they were inside. A bit small, but much better than a tent. They could maybe be rented by tourists? I asked – but no, the government did not allow that. The huts were deemed too simple. We learned that they had no toilet and no kitchen. There was this main building for that purpose.

Thursday Thoughts – The Philharmonic Hall, Szczecin

5 september, 201924 februari, 2020 / Leya / 37 kommentarer

From colour down to black and white – this concert hall is a fabulous piece of architecture. Viveka and I had a good hour’s rest here with a nice cup of coffee.