It takes a whole day to drive down from Narvik to Å, 380 kilometres, and you have to stop several times just to walk out in all that beauty…
Not far from Svolvær, we reached Kabelvåg, and stopped to admire the grand Lofoten Cathedral (1898) – all in wood – that takes impressive 1200 visitors. Very beautifully built, but in need of restoration and painting now.
Lofotr Viking Museum in Borg is the place where the grandest house ever from the Viking Era was found, and a copy of it was built in natural size.
As the roads grew more narrow and winding, the sun went behind the clouds and was mostly veiled in the soft fog. This, of course, sometimes made the landscape even more interesting.
Looking behind us, the clear skies were still there though.
Winding roads among the small islands, and
grass clad roofs everywhere. A landscape reminding of a Tolkien story.
Finally, after being mistaken several times – we reached Å, where we were going to spend the night. Meet more of Å in the next post!
Narvik was developed as an all-year ice free port for the Swedish Kiruna and Gällivare iron mines. In my youth I was here once, but did not go further out to Lofoten. This time we also took the train to Riksgränsen and back again. We got an interesting view of the new bridge connecting islands – not finished yet.
Riksgränsen (the border to Sweden) – and as you can see there is no activity during summer – it seems. Abandoned cafées and all lifts still waiting for passengers.
Back in Narvik again I marvelled at the abundance of red clover overlooking the harbour. Flowers everywhere along the roads in Sweden and Norway – a wonder for me used to the brownish yellow burnt landscape at home.
We spent only a day here – then left for Lofoten and its beautiful, varied landscapes.
For the Swedish ”Fika” this first day, we found a lovely place with the sound of running water and a soothing mountain view.
Milo would have loved this place. Low water and easy to splash around and play.
The common butterwort grew on the banks of this little river – did you know this is a carnivorous plant? I didn’t before I looked it up in the flora.
Just before darkness, we arrived in Svolvaer – the main town in Lofoten – which will be in the next post!
Coming back from a beautiful trip to Lofoten, Norway. We have been to Norway so many times, but never to Lofoten. It was worth waiting for…Here are two appetizers.
Between Paro and the Capital of Bhutan, Thimpu, the road takes you over the Dochula Pass (3140 m) with its 108 chortens. A chorten is a kind of stupa, often built at crossroads and passes to ward off evil. And all chortens contain religious relics.
The Druk Wangyal Khang Zhang Chortens are red-band or khangzang chortens, built in a central hillock at the pass, under the patronage of the Queen Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk. In local language they are called ”chortens of victory”, because they were built as a memorial in honour of the Bhutanese soldiers who were killed in the December 2003 battle against Assamese insurgents from India. It also marks the victory of King Jigme Singye Wangchuck who dislodged the rebels from their camps in Bhutanese territory.
This is a peaceful place for slow walks – contemplating life, feeling the fresh air and nature’s beauty.
Circumambulating clockwise.
When the sun comes shining through – my heart shines too.
The rhododendrons and magnolias touch the sky.
After the completion of the chortens, the temple known as the Druk Wangyel Lhakhang was built in June 2008 – as a memorial to celebrate 100 years of monarchy in Bhutan.
From the Dochula Pass you will, on a clear day, have a panoramic view of the Himalayan range. The best time is in October/November, but we were still quite lucky this day.
On the far right you will find the highest unclimbed mountain in the world, Gangkar Puensum, 7564 meters. It is also the highest mountain in Bhutan.
Since 1994, climbing of mountains in Bhutan higher than 6,000 meters has been prohibited out of respect for local spiritual beliefs, and since 2003 mountaineering has been completely forbidden.
But somewhere, far away behind the treetops, these enigmatic giants are waiting…
…we flew to Bhutan, Druk Yul, Land of the Thunder Dragon. This is the country launching GNH – Gross National Happiness – instead of GNP. I asked people I met if they really were, Happy. And, they said yes, they were. I can understand why.
Through the windows I could see the Himalayas, snow capped mountains welcoming me a second time. In 1986 I went to Nepal and India, but haven’t been in these parts since. I fell in love with Nepal. And now I am passionate about Bhutan.
Paro, Buthan, is said to offer one of the three most dangerous approaches and landings in the world. You could almost reach out and touch the mountain houses…
It was difficult to take photos, but I had to try. Druk Air indeed has got some skilled pilots.
With surrounding peaks as high as 5,500 m (18,000 ft), Paro airport is considered one of the world’s most challenging airports, and only a select number of pilots are certified to land here. I heard they were 14.
Flights to and from Paro are allowed under visual meteorological conditions only and are restricted to daylight hours from sunrise to sunset. We flew early morning.
The spectacular and dangerous left turn in the valley before landing had us all holding our breath. And, in a way we never let that feeling go…
The most beautiful airport in the world?
We were of course met by the Royal Family – portraits of the King, or of his whole family, were present everywhere in Bhutan. Even as pins on the men’s Gho (national dress).
It may be small, but the arrival hall is exquisitely decorated. Finally we are at the entrance to the land of Happiness. The last Shang-ri-La.
Letter Z – In the header haze, Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand.
Somewhere in Switzerland
Then, my little boy, zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzleeping on the – table…
This is maybe many people’s dream of a relaxing vacation – but luckily we are all different. We are all sailors on this vast ocean – but we are all different vessels and we all sail according to what we have learned, so far.
Also I dream of light and warm winds – especially during the Swedish winter. But I can more relate to these guys, who seek a space of their own with enough room and silence to let their thoughts run free. Reading a book…
…fishing the blue waves…
…or just contemplating life, sitting at the edge of the ocean.
All different vessels, but sailing together. Let us take good care of each other while we are here – Life is a wonderful gift.
Leya 
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