Marrakesh and street life go well together.
A colourful combination.
For more street photography and skylines, click here.
Thoughts
Travel theme: Neutral
Neutral colours in a neutral Moroccan landscape…go look for details at Ailsa’s!
Wordless Wednesday
Travel theme: Camping
I have done much camping in my days…many of us have. As a child I loved it, then as a young woman in love, we camped all over Europe during the summers. Some camping in the mountains, hiking and some camping with my students…but now, it is over.
Or… almost.
If staying at a Berber camp for two days, in tents, and having a camp fire in The Sahara Desert, is camping, then I have camped again… last month. Our tent was the one to the right, with a yellow entrance carpet.
At the far end of the camp were the toilets – and to my great disappointment, they were ordinary toilets – just like those at home…The washing basins outdoors though.
The adventure started with a marvellous camel ride over the dunes, and enjoying the colourful sunset from the top dunes.Back at the camp, we were treated to a real feast – or at least it felt so after our long day…
We had some delicious tagine by candle light in the main tent, and then we sat by the fire under the stars, listening to each others’ stories. Just existing.
We all slept well that night, but some of us woke up early…trying to find our way in the dizziness of the silence of unfamiliar surroundings.
I had expected it to be very cold during the night – we had been told to bring warm clothes. But three o’clock in the morning the air was soft and smooth, fresh and only a bit cool.
Finally back at our tent, I admired yesterday’s fireplace in the clear morning light, went inside the tent, and fell asleep again.
Before leaving the camp the day after, I enjoyed the sun seeping through our carpet, and the joy of photographing our tent in daylight. The bed was very warm and comfortable, and we were provided with all sorts of bed linen, blankets, duvets, etc.
A last look at the camp and the ”restaurant”, then we left what had been the highlight of our journey.
The rest of my desert adventures will have to wait for a post of their own.
I was just thinking that, maybe one day…we will be back in the Sahara again…
Go for more camping here.
Djemaa el-Fna – ”assembly of the dead”
Everywhere you look in the Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh’s main square, you’ll discover theatre in progress. The street theatre has a natural home here ever since this plaza was the site of public executions around AD 1050. Even if there are discussions on the origin of its name, Jemaa means ”congregation” in Arabic, probably referring to a destroyed Almoravid mosque. ”Fanâʼ” or ”finâ'” can mean ”death” or ”a courtyard, space in front of a building.” Thus, one meaning could be ”The assembly of death,” or‘assembly of the dead’.
It is not just a tourist attraction since many locals also enjoy the activities that make Djemaa el- Fna come alive. During the day, the square has numerous stalls, most of which sell fresh fruit juice, water and fruit.
By 10am, the daily performance is under way. Snake charmers with their hissing cobras and men with chained Barbary apes, despite the protected status of these species under Moroccan law; henna tattoo artists ( women with piping bags full of henna paste, ready to paint you with “tattoos” that will last up to three months – though beware of synthetic “black henna”, which contains a toxic chemical; only red henna is natural. The Henna Café guarantees to use only natural henna).
Water-sellers in fringed hats, with water-bags hanging and brass cups clanging. Medicine men display their cures, and tooth-pullers display trays of extracted molars to prove their skill. And if you wonder…fortune-tellers sit under umbrellas with packs of fortune-telling cards at the ready.
At dusk people come out for an evening promenade, and the square gradually fills until it becomes a whole carnival of storytellers (telling their tales in Berber or Arabic, to an audience of locals), acrobats, musicians and entertainers. If you want a respite, you can move over to the rooftop terraces, such as the Café du Grand Balcon, or Café Glacier, for a vista over the square and all the activities, and the crowds who come to see them. Very much recommended. We enjoyed a rather expensive bottle of juice and a less expensive mint tee – having a great view without being crowded.
Arrive early in the evening to get a good seat. Applause and a few dirhams will encourage the performers. It’s a great show, but be prepared…taking photos immediately brings at least one man to your door…dirhams!
In 2001, Djemaa el-Fna was recognized by UNESCO in the project Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity – the initiative coming from people concerned about the Djemaa el-Fna. Since long known for its concentration of traditional activities by storytellers, musicians and performers, but now threatened by economic development pressures. The residents wanted protection of their traditions, and called for action on an international level. In 2001, this ”cultural space” got its protection.
In Marrakesh, this meeting place is a must. Remember – this is far from only for tourists. Most people strolling here, enjoying themselves, are locals. This is, even today, a genuine piece of Arabian Nights…no ”assembly of the dead”.
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Have a Taste of Magical Marrakesh
If I were to chose one picture, only, to represent my visit to Marrakesh and the Medina, it would be the one in the header. Colourful, hot and filled with scents. Then, there is of course the multitude of people…here we go!
I loved our little street. Behind the typical pink walls, we had to walk endless tiny streets and alleys to get to our Riad (Moroccan mansion) . But there was no stress, a calm and friendly atmosphere – and no ”special guides” trying to make money out of us.
Just the everyday life going on…young and old, working or relaxing in the shadow.
On our way to the Souks, the principal shopping attraction in the city, I felt a bit worried about how I would cope with it. I do not like haggling, so I had already decided not to buy anything. My husband has visited Marrakesh at least three times before, and had also warned me that we soon would be ”kidnapped” by ”local guides”. (And so we were…)
Marrakesh has the largest traditional Berber market in Morocco, and the souk area has been compared to a micro-medina in itself, where it is absolutely essential to get lost…
But once you’re inside though, the feeling of One Thousand and One Nights ( Arabian Nights), or Aladdin, immediately comes to mind…and if you take a closer look at my gallery photos – I’m rather sure I was caught in the middle of …a treasure chest transport!
Waiting patiently in the heat
Graffitti!
Posing?
A lovely hug
What…is happening?
A Treasure transport!
More of transport in the narrow alleys – here we had to flee into a shop
Historically the souks of Marrakesh were divided into retail areas for particular goods such as leather, carpets, metalwork and pottery. We could roughly see these divisions still, but rather overlaped. Many of the souks sell items like carpets and rugs, clothes, leather bags, and lanterns. Argan oil is popular everywhere.
After a hectic day it is a blessing to come back to our quiet Riad for a delicious Tagine (A specialty of the city and the symbol of its cuisine. We had a local tajine prepared with beef meat, spices and ”smen” and slow-cooked in a traditional oven in hot ashes. )
Then finishing the evening with a slow walk on the roof top. In silence…
…before going to sleep.
SL-WEEK: Reflection
For Sylvain Landry – Reflection. I love the way the world changes in reflections. In the header, a photo from somewhere in China, where many separate worlds are revealed …and the second photo is from my forest at home. My world.
Bäcken lever. The brook comes alive when the ice is gone.
WPC: Earth
The challenge this week from WordPress is to “…share your vision of our glorious Mother Earth”.
I feel…we are a tiny, gloriously beautiful, island out in the great blue – surrounded by stars and the heavens. Who is at the wheel? I wish we had better control …I fear we have lost the sextant and with it, our ability of navigation.
WPC: Admiration
I admire many people. People who struggle hard to get a decent life, people who save other people’s lives, people who have accomplished great things… But there is one man I admire perhaps the most of all. The Dalai Lama.
We all know his story, how he was taken from his parents at an early age – being the chosen one. How he had to flee his country from the invading Chinese, and how he has managed to survive and be the leader and role model for so many people in the world. His gentle wisdom, his smiling eyes, his message of peace and nonviolence is recognized worldwide.
The Dalai Lama has my deepest admiration .
In the header is a picture from Malmoe, when he visited in 2011. I had listened to him once before in Lund, but this time I also happened to be right at the entrance just when he left the building.
After the interesting and joyful interview, he walked out to the waiting car…
…saying his gentle goodbyes to all of us. For this time. In my heart, I hope to see him again. Some day. Somewhere.
Thursday Thoughts – Desert Inhabitants
Life in the desert – we all know there is life, but for me it was rather a shock to see how Much life.
Human beings might turn up – like in the header – but seldom without camels.
If you walk the dunes of the Sahara Desert an early morning, waiting for the sunrise, there are other creatures catching your attention…
…like this super fast moving gerbil, or desert rat. Puffs of sand coming up of this hole made me curious…
I waited for him to show himself properly…but swooosh, and he was up and back in his hole in less than a milli – second, digging along again. At least I got a glimpse of his fascinatingly big eyes!
After the sunrise, we walked over the dunes towards the camp. The grey light had shifted into pink, and was now turning more and more into a warm yellow. But who is making these patterns then? And, looking at the tiny footprints, there must be a multitude of these creatures…
And here he is – a scarab beetle scuttling the big sand waves. I guess a cousin to those scarabs highly revered in old Egypt. In the shadow of a dune I found this little one digging along.
We rode camels to the dunes and watched the sunset from one of them. A beautiful experience – beyond words. One of the Berber men told us we had been followed by a desert fox – I was sorry he did not tell us when the fox was still there.
Lastly – a picture of the scarab footprints…and something else…Who made these tunnels under the sand? I hope someone out there in the blogosphere has the answer!
Leya 
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