Wordless Wednesday
Travel
Thursday Thoughts – A Walk with Aleksandr in Old Tbilisi
First of all, I want to thank Viveka of myguiltypleasures for inspiring us to go to Georgia. She went there over Christmas and totally fell in love with the city.
The unmistakable charm of the Old Town, the history, the people, the food and wine, brought us here. We stayed for a week, but could easily have stayed longer. I know Viveka is going again this Easter. A bit envious…I am!
We decided to have a guide for one day – a real gentleman, recommended by Viveka, who had accidentally met Aleksandr at the end of her stay. And what he doesn’t know about Old Tblisi (Old Tiflis), its history and architecture – is not worth knowing. Let’s follow him along his favorite streets!
Open any door, and you will either find a staircase or a cat or two…
An old factory yard
The old Caravanseraj from the Silk Road days – imagine the caravan of camels and merchants entering here!
Havana vibes
Tuning
Aleksandr is a well known face in Old Town, and knows every street and every house. He is a former architect – which explains his faiblesse for the Old part of the city.
On the left hand side, according to Alexandr, you see the most beautiful balcony in town. The whole street is very beautiful – but what they are building at the end of this lovely row of balconies – I don’t know…
Around midday it was time to sit down for a glass of wine – resting in the shade. It was an unusually hot day for October, 27 degrees C.
In the streets, children were playing
And more laundry hanging…
…and carpentry
Finally… we were approaching his own favorite, Alexandre Dumas Street. Here the balconies and bay windows seem, if possible, even bigger than in other streets.
The old, cobbled Dumas is rather short and narrow. A document of times gone by – nothing yet demolished, reconstructed or changed. A short glance at Aleksandr, and the light in his eyes revealed just how much he loves his city.
On reaching the end though, we could see newly constructed buildings – and machines working – when the street took a left turn, and changed names.
Somewhere here we found a peaceful place to sit down and rest. Aleksandr’s tour is not over yet, but maybe next Thursday? I hope you enjoyed walking with us – you are very welcome back!
Wordless Wednesday
Thursday Thoughts – A Day with Georgian Historic Sites
We decided to take a day out of Tbilisi – for some of Georgia’s old historic sites. Uplistsikhe is an interesting ancient rock-hewn town in eastern Georgia, built on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. It is identified by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in the country.
As our eminent guide, Katie, led us through the remains of this once 20 000 people inhabited town – she told us that even if it was almost destroyed by the Mongolians in the 13th century, the area also suffers from frequent earthquakes, which finally finished its existence.
The town contains various structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages, and is notable for the unique combination of various styles of rock-cut cultures from Anatolia and Iran, as well as the coexistence of pagan and Christian architecture.
At the summit of the complex is a Christian basilica built of stone and brick in the 9th-10th centuries. (Another photo from it last Silent Sunday.)
The quiet interior is in perfect harmony. I felt completely at peace with myself, alone in the natural light, in a translucent sphere.
Archaeological excavations have discovered numerous artifacts of different periods, including gold, silver and bronze jewellery, and samples of ceramics and sculptures. Many of these artifacts are in the safekeeping of the National Museum in Tbilisi.
After this windy adventure, we left for Jvari Monastery (in the header, seen from Svetitskhoveli), whose name is translated as the ”Monastery of the Cross”. Jvari Monastery is a sixth century Georgian Orthodox monastery near Mtskheta, and is listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.
Jvari is a rare case of the Early Medieval Georgian church that survived to the present day almost unchanged. The church became the founder of its type, the Jvari type of church architecture, prevalent in Georgia and Armenia.
The monastery stands on the rocky mountaintop at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, overlooking the town of Mtskheta.
Built atop of Jvari Mount (656 m a.s.l.), the monastery is an example of harmonious connection with the natural environment, characteristic to Georgian architecture.
We ventured down to Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta (this city also recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site), one of the oldest cities of Georgia, founded by the ancient Meschian tribes in the 5th century. It was capital of the early Georgian Kingdom of Iberia from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD, and continued to serve as the coronation and burial place for most kings of Georgia until the end of the kingdom in the 19th century.
The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (literally the Cathedral of the Living Pillar) is currently the second largest church building in Georgia, after the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi. Known as the burial site of Christ’s mantle, Svetitskhoveli has long been one of the principal Georgian Orthodox churches in the region. It is considered a masterpiece of the Early and High Middle Ages.
At the end of the day, our lovely, knowledgeable guide, Katie, waited patiently for her ”sheep” to return to their master.
Wordless Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday
Thursday Thoughts – The Harvest is In
We happened to land in Tbilisi the day before the annual October festival – two days of celebrating the grape harvest of the year. What luck! Follow me to the market!
The whole city on its feet, night and day. The first thing we noticed was the many ”braids” of candy called Churchkhela. Delicious! (Recipe in the link.)
They make long threads of mostly walnuts or hazelnuts, then dip them in boiled/cooked grape juice. A long process for several layers, but oh…the taste! We bough many with us home – all colours.
Everybody was out in the streets, and everywhere barbeques and makings of churchkhela!
The old Silk Road – the market kind…
You could buy almost anything…
Young and old alike
Flowers in their hair
Cheese for making the famous cheese bread: Kachapouri
The lovely ”Tree of Life”, by sculptor David Monavarlisashvili, offers so much to discover for children – and grown-ups… It greatly reminded me of one of my children’s favorite authors, Shaun Tan, his books and movies.
And the nights were warm, slowly walking the Rike Park and Peace Bridge. The bridge stretches 150 metres (490 ft) over the Kura River to create a contemporary design feature connecting Old Tbilisi with the new district. The official opening took place on May 6, 2010. Architect, Italian Michele De Lucchi.
Thursday Thoughts – Tbilisi, A Feast for the Eye
Because of its location on the crossroads between Europe and Asia, and its proximity to the Silk Road, Tbilisi has kept its interest to various global powers. Tbilisi’s diverse history is reflected in its architecture, which is a mix of medieval, neoclassical, Beaux Arts, Art Nouveau, Stalinist and the Modern structures. Only one visit will not be enough to seek out all its secrets.
Historically, Tbilisi has been home to people of multiple cultural, ethnic, and religious backgrounds. You will find Mosques, Churches and Cathedrals side by side, and the people live in peace together.
Walking in the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi, is a walk filled with wonders and harmony. At least if you love architecture, open minded and smiling people, and gentle cats and dogs.
The first thing to learn, is never to pass a gate or a narrow passage without having a look inside. Just quietly walk in, the laundry lady will just smile and give you a nod.
You will always be greatly rewarded. Colours and harmony rules.
And the doors…I know of many who would swoon at the very sight of only one street…
Old iron gates and wooden balconies are characteristic of Tbilisi. I think I have hundreds of balcony images – maybe I will post some more …I cannot get enough of them.
Our first day in the city, we wanted to climb to the medieval Narikala Fortress, to get the best view of the city and the Kura river.
The city’s 1.5 million inhabitants were seeking the shades this hot day, and it really took some effort to walk all those steps. But every minute was a joy, stopping now and then to admire the view and for talking to all the lovely people.
Everywhere being inspected by the friendly cats and dogs of course…
On reaching a bench in the shadow, we had a Swedish ”fika”, admiring the view of the newer part of Tbilisi, the Sioni Cathedral and the Holy Trinity Cathedral.
In the header is the view of Old Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) and the new Peace Bridge reaching over the river Kura.
From the fortress and the slopes of the Botanical Gardens, we finished our first views of this charming and enigmatic city. Hopefully you will want to walk with me again – this is a city filled with art, gentle inhabitants and gorgeous food and wine. A Pearl of cities.
Wordless Wednesday
Lens-Artists Challenge #65 – Pick a Place and Catch its Spirit
Last week Amy challenged us to share images of the countryside and/or a small town. This week Tina is hosting, and she is ”…asking you to look a bit farther afield. Each of us at some point has visited a place that holds special memories. It may have been a small town, a big city, or even better, an entire country. We’d like you to capture the spirit of a place that is vivid in your memory. What was it that drew you in and why did it capture YOUR heart?”
I guess many of you already know where my heart lies – Iceland. I have been returning to this country again and again, for more than 30 years now. There is no end to the fascination. This is my attempt to find out Why.
The vast, open landscapes
The mountains and glaciers
The fresh air
The volcanoes and geology
The flora
And maybe most of all – the Light
– morning
– evening
– and night
There is so much more of Iceland to love – horses, waterfalls, lava landscapes, hot springs… and beautiful Reykjavik with Hallgrímskirkja of course.
Hopefully you are all inspired by now – Patti, Tina, Amy and I are looking forward to seeing your special places!
Leya 
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