Partytime – At the Fishmarket!

4 januari, 20174 januari, 2017 / Leya / 16 kommentarer

Before sailing with our ship, Cachalote, we went to the fishmarket in Puerto Ayora. On our way, we were constantly reminded of Darwin and his famous finches, and how repulsed he was by the marine iguanas, famously referring to them in his journal as “imps of darkness.” Personally I must say I love them both! I also love their surroundings and the way they exquisitely blend in…More than once I almost trod on them. Juan, our naturalist guide, was constantly warning us not to touch any animals here.

Marine iguana

Darwin recognized that the differrences in their beaks depends on their different food sources

When we finally reached the fishmarket, we got a full blown show the next half hour!

The fish (and bird…)market in Puerto Ayora

On the roof, waiting for the right moment…

Something fell under that box…let me…

The left brown pelican has lost his upper beak – I wonder how he managed…

The Great Frigate birds are tough guys who always steal their dinners…

If or When you finally get your hands on a piece of fish – run!

Always aware of the importance of their precious islands – do not catch the wrong fish!

Keep the Galápagos Islands the way they are – serene and unpolluted. 200 000 tourists a year visit them. Maybe Ecuador has to slow down a bit to save this treasure for the future?

Wordless Wednesday

4 januari, 20174 januari, 2017 / Leya / 18 kommentarer

Galápagos – Santa Cruz and Darwin

3 januari, 20173 januari, 2017 / Leya / 20 kommentarer

From the lushness of the Amazon we flew to Galápagos – now in the dry season. We visited 10 of the 19 islands, starting with Santa Cruz and the Charles Darwin Research Station.

I guess most people recognize this gentleman as a Giant Tortoise, but some maybe think of him as the Galápagos Tortoise or the Elephant Tortoise. Length 150 cm and weight up to 250kg, and they can get very old. Of originally 14 subspecies, 10 remains. This gentleman here, might have been alive when Darwin came to the islands 1835 – just reflect upon that…

Lonesome George was very well known over the world as the last existing of his kind. Despite many efforts to save his species – the scientists failed. He died alone in 2012.

In the highland area of Santa Cruz, these giants walk and live. Not very well seen by the local farmers though, as they easily break any fence and eat 40 kg a day…

…but on the other hand they spread the seeds again back onto earth again …

These giants are not very fast…and we saw several of them along – or on – the road. There were even roadsigns to warn drivers about them.

Our guide, Juan, was a tough guy – almost military discipline – but that is needed to protect the islands and its very special wildlife. We were requested to stay in the group, only walk on the signposted paths and not move closer to the animals than 2 metres.

Most species are endemic, that is also why Darwin got easily observed material for his theories. In fact he did not visit the islands for more than 35 days – and from this came…The Origin of Species. Something that was to change the world for ever.

The research institute is very successful in breeding and releasing tortoises, iguanas and finches – among other endemic species. There was this great story of Diego, a tortoise of the hoodensis species, who 1905 was brought from Espagñola island to San Diego Zoo. He never liked it there, but stayed until 1965, when he was brought back to Santa Cruz to save his species from extinction. And he did – almost he alone! Now there are about 2000 of his offspring ”running” around on the islands! He would not be photographed though…turning his back on us all…

There are two distinct carapace shapes: the dome – shaped and in this picture, the saddle – backed tortoise

The saddle – backed have got longer neck and legs…

…when mating, the higher you can raise your head…the better chances the female will accept you

Freedom!

CFFC: Dark and Light

3 januari, 201710 januari, 2017 / Leya / 32 kommentarer

Dark and Light for Cee’s challenge – much of that in the rainforest, but also the reflections on the poles every lodge was sitting upon. Here some bats resting after their night adventures.

Amazonas – Goodbye and Happy New Year!

31 december, 201631 december, 2016 / Leya / 43 kommentarer

The very last shimmering hours at Sacha Lodge, we spent canoeing again – and finally, for the sunset over the Amazon, in a high tree tower up in a giant kapok tree.

Let us start with the canoe ride – full up with fresh food and ready for the last adventure!

Into the forest again, on silent waterways

And the beauty of the dense rainforest

Finally we reached the last path, hiking to the old kapok tree.

Breathtaking views..

…in every direction

Do you hear a loud, cartoonish water-droplet noise? A Russet backed Oropendola! (The oriole family)

Tucans – this one as striped as a bumble bee

Orchids on the heavy branches

Slowly the sun was fading and the light smoothened out both the landscape and the minds of us six friends sitting in the kapok tree. Each one in his own world…knowing this was the last day, the last hours of our great adventure. The Amazon saying its goodbyes…and us contemplating life’s beauty, in this moment in time

No words needed – only the sounds of the rainforest. A sadness and a joy, a thankfulness and a hope for this wonder to survive, to be given to our children and grandchildren.

In the early morning, we left this Paradise. Of course it showed its most glorious face this day – for us to treasure and to keep in our hearts.

Sacha Lodge will go on helping the locals with free water taxi, school supplies and a medical assistance program – and ecotourism to positively influence the course of land management in the area.

On reaching the Napo River again – a tiny, but clear rainbow appeared in the sky –

I want to thank you all, readers, followers, everyone who finds joy in my posts – it is you who make me tick…I hope to see you again next year – 2017. All the best!

Amazonas – Almost Airborne!

31 december, 201631 december, 2016 / Leya / 10 kommentarer

The last days at Sacha Lodge, we spent most of the time 40 metres up – above the canopy of the rainforest. In fact, ”Sacha” means ”forest” in Quichua, the local language here.

The biodiversity is extremely rich in the Amazon, and the list of birds sighted at Sacha, for example, is at 605 species – in an area of 5000 acres. 12 species of monkeys and plants somewhere in the thousands. Trees are about 100 species per acre – no wonder my treeloving spirit soared in the canopy!

This walk offered splendid views of the canopy and of the birds living here

Luis and Pablo spotted everything of interest

most of the birds seen had to be through the tube, but some came really close. Blue Dacnis, female.

Paradise Tanager – maybe 15 fluttering neonlights all over this tree!

Climbing down again and walking back to the lodge – Luis Andi shared some of his extensive knowledge of the medicinal plants in the rainforest. We had noticed him being an excellent scout, moving soundlessly on the narrow paths, but also an excellent birdman – he knew about 400 birds (and could sound like most of them!) I do not have to say he was born and bred in the Amazon. 90% of Sacha’s staff is made up of locals from Ecuador’s Amazon region.

Pablo listening to Luis’ stories

This butterfly would not leave my arm…finally I had another guest to handle him. But some ten minutes later, he found me again!

Iron palm or walking palm

The mushrooms were lovely, these looked like flowers…

Indeed they were all heavenly small and exquisite!

We were all very impressed – to say the least – of our guides’ knowledge. There was not one single question about birds or animals that Pablo could not answer, and Luis and him were the perfect couple to guide us through the secrets of the tropical rainforest.

But, now we were extremely hungry…knowing that a delicious lunch was waiting back at our lodge. We would need it before the afternoon and night adventures.

Amazonas Day Two – A Monkey Business

30 december, 201630 december, 2016 / Leya / 24 kommentarer

After having some (read MUCH) lunch, we were ready for the afternoon waterways.

Led by our excellent guides, Pablo Maya and Luis Andi, we spent hours under the dense vegetation exploring Anaconda Creek.

Water sallad was all over the lake – decoratively spreading its light green beauty.

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More magic tunnels – imagine the sounds of the Amazon rainforest touching you…gently

…and then the monkeys were all over us! Howler monkeys, cappucciner monkeys and most lovely of them all: squirrel monkeys. Jumping and feasting in whole squadrons…they even jumped right over the canoe – curiously observing us. Enjoy!

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Darkness descended early upon us in the Amazon basin. Around 6 pm it was time to return to Sacha Lodge after a long and eventful day.

Home, sweet home – by now Sacha really was our Home. The lights invitingly calling us…

Good night, this last night of the old year, 2016.

Amazonas Day Two – On The Napo River

30 december, 201630 december, 2016 / Leya / 6 kommentarer

A foggy morning, but no wind, only the sounds of the rainforest and the river. After a divine breakfast at the lodge by the lake, we started off early heading for the parrot lick.

Unfortunately the traffic on the Napo River also brings long vehicles for the oil business here…They told us that the oil people are building a road across the Amazon forest. We had read about it, but now we could even see the trailers and the flames. This just makes me feel so helpless…Their government had promised not to give in to big business – but money always wins over nature and our life on this beautiful planet. So far. Maybe one day, when everything is dead and gone…

Finally the fog lifted, and we could admire the parakeets using the clay to neutralize the poisonous metals in their food. Notice the one hanging upside down!

Friendly people washing

Great Egret

Spoonbills

Howler monkey

We continued canoeing to a village on the other side of the river. Here a women’s collective worked to inform about the old ways of living, the life of the Amazon indigenous people and of their cooking, art and craft.

Overall view

Cooking was, and mostly is, the mothers’ task. This was made for us – Yucca, fish baked in leaves, sugar canes, roasted nuts and baked banana. Totally Delicious!

Demostrating fishing tools

Fausto Andi was born and raised in the rainforest, and could tell us about everything from his childhood. This wivel he ate fresh…alive and kicking…

…but not curare. The cotton is used to fill up the pipe and give a smooth flight to the thin arrow

He hit the pumpkin – of course!

Goodbye to the shy and gentle ladies!

Back to the lodge for some lunch – and then on to our next adventure!

Thursday Thoughts – Ama la Vida!

22 december, 201622 december, 2016 / Leya / 16 kommentarer

Ecuador Ama la Vida – and they do. And they make us, all visitors, do. And we love them, the Ecuadorians and their astonishing country and nature.

I came back a couple of days ago, but in my heart I am still there – and I will never leave. On my first day in Sweden I immediately caught a severe cold, but still had to go to work. Yesterday was my last working day before Christmas.

So, where to begin, trying to explain that my childhood dream has come true? That this journey was the greatest adventure of my life? But we all have different dreams…

As a 7-year-old girl I first borrowed a book about the remote Galapagos Islands, and learned there was a place on earth where animals and humans lived in peace with each other. The animals were not afraid of humans, and you could sit right next to them and we could talk to each other as true friends. The little girl marvelled and nourrished a dream in her heart, that someday and somehow she would travel to these enchanted islands…

After this day she devoured everything about the Galapagos Islands…and later, on TV, she listened to David Attenborough and …her heart and mind was set. About then, she also decided to one day walk in the jungle, listening to all the sounds in the dark night, in the REAL jungle, the Amazonas. I do not think she realized the possibility of these two dreams once coming true within the same country, within the same year and the same month.

To a little girl who loved animals more than people, and who, in fact, in many ways still prefers animals to people – such a journey was the ultimate dream.

On this fantastic journey, I met some astonishing people as well…people I never will forget. They enriched my life and will hopefully continue to do so. The artist Jane Tomlinson and her photographing husband Moth Clark are two extraordinary gifted people. Their deep feelings for, and knowledge of, the natural world are genuine and vibrant. Moth’s photos are outstanding and Jane’s paintings as vibrant as life itself.

I received the permission from Jane herself to use one of her paintings in this post. I love starlings, so this was a natural choice. Now I am looking forward to seeing more of Moth’s photos from the Galapagos Islands and some lovely paintings by Jane. Ama la Vida – easily done when you see Jane’s artwork! The art of Jane Tomlinson.

Thank you so much for visiting, and waiting – I will be posting more when I am recovered!