Ambience – Nature is the master of this…I return to late evening canoeing along the narrow water ways of the Amazon basin. The darkness of the forest and the light still filtering in through the canopy. Hitting the tiny inhabitants of the river bed. The sounds of the rainforest tell you …you are not alone.
Before sailing with our ship, Cachalote, we went to the fishmarket in Puerto Ayora. On our way, we were constantly reminded of Darwin and his famous finches, and how repulsed he was by the marine iguanas, famously referring to them in his journal as “imps of darkness.” Personally I must say I love them both! I also love their surroundings and the way they exquisitely blend in…More than once I almost trod on them. Juan, our naturalist guide, was constantly warning us not to touch any animals here.
When we finally reached the fishmarket, we got a full blown show the next half hour!
Always aware of the importance of their precious islands – do not catch the wrong fish!
Keep the Galápagos Islands the way they are – serene and unpolluted. 200 000 tourists a year visit them. Maybe Ecuador has to slow down a bit to save this treasure for the future?
From the lushness of the Amazon we flew to Galápagos – now in the dry season. We visited 10 of the 19 islands, starting with Santa Cruz and the Charles Darwin Research Station.
I guess most people recognize this gentleman as a Giant Tortoise, but some maybe think of him as the Galápagos Tortoise or the Elephant Tortoise. Length 150 cm and weight up to 250kg, and they can get very old. Of originally 14 subspecies, 10 remains. This gentleman here, might have been alive when Darwin came to the islands 1835 – just reflect upon that…
Lonesome George was very well known over the world as the last existing of his kind. Despite many efforts to save his species – the scientists failed. He died alone in 2012.
In the highland area of Santa Cruz, these giants walk and live. Not very well seen by the local farmers though, as they easily break any fence and eat 40 kg a day…
…but on the other hand they spread the seeds again back onto earth again …
These giants are not very fast…and we saw several of them along – or on – the road. There were even roadsigns to warn drivers about them.
Our guide, Juan, was a tough guy – almost military discipline – but that is needed to protect the islands and its very special wildlife. We were requested to stay in the group, only walk on the signposted paths and not move closer to the animals than 2 metres.
Most species are endemic, that is also why Darwin got easily observed material for his theories. In fact he did not visit the islands for more than 35 days – and from this came…The Origin of Species. Something that was to change the world for ever.
The research institute is very successful in breeding and releasing tortoises, iguanas and finches – among other endemic species. There was this great story of Diego, a tortoise of the hoodensis species, who 1905 was brought from Espagñola island to San Diego Zoo. He never liked it there, but stayed until 1965, when he was brought back to Santa Cruz to save his species from extinction. And he did – almost he alone! Now there are about 2000 of his offspring ”running” around on the islands! He would not be photographed though…turning his back on us all…
Freedom!
The very last shimmering hours at Sacha Lodge, we spent canoeing again – and finally, for the sunset over the Amazon, in a high tree tower up in a giant kapok tree.
Let us start with the canoe ride – full up with fresh food and ready for the last adventure!
Finally we reached the last path, hiking to the old kapok tree.
Slowly the sun was fading and the light smoothened out both the landscape and the minds of us six friends sitting in the kapok tree. Each one in his own world…knowing this was the last day, the last hours of our great adventure. The Amazon saying its goodbyes…and us contemplating life’s beauty, in this moment in time
No words needed – only the sounds of the rainforest. A sadness and a joy, a thankfulness and a hope for this wonder to survive, to be given to our children and grandchildren.
In the early morning, we left this Paradise. Of course it showed its most glorious face this day – for us to treasure and to keep in our hearts.
Sacha Lodge will go on helping the locals with free water taxi, school supplies and a medical assistance program – and ecotourism to positively influence the course of land management in the area.
On reaching the Napo River again – a tiny, but clear rainbow appeared in the sky –
I want to thank you all, readers, followers, everyone who finds joy in my posts – it is you who make me tick…I hope to see you again next year – 2017. All the best!
After having some (read MUCH) lunch, we were ready for the afternoon waterways.
Led by our excellent guides, Pablo Maya and Luis Andi, we spent hours under the dense vegetation exploring Anaconda Creek.
Water sallad was all over the lake – decoratively spreading its light green beauty.
More magic tunnels – imagine the sounds of the Amazon rainforest touching you…gently
…and then the monkeys were all over us! Howler monkeys, cappucciner monkeys and most lovely of them all: squirrel monkeys. Jumping and feasting in whole squadrons…they even jumped right over the canoe – curiously observing us. Enjoy!
Darkness descended early upon us in the Amazon basin. Around 6 pm it was time to return to Sacha Lodge after a long and eventful day.
Home, sweet home – by now Sacha really was our Home. The lights invitingly calling us…
Good night, this last night of the old year, 2016.
So, I have been to Paradise – and back again. From Sweden to Amsterdam and then to Quito. After a couple of interesting days in beautiful world heritage, Quito Old Town, we flew down to the Amazon basin, Coca.
From Coca 1 1/2hour by motorized canoe on the Napo River …
Then 30 minutes hiking on jungle boardwalk before the last bit in a paddle canoe.
There was a slight drizzle, but we saw an abundance of flowers and birds already on this short way before reaching the lodge.
At Sacha Lodge we were welcomed by our hosts. The Lodge had rooms for 65 guests, but at the moment we were only 13-14. Lots of space and attention from our excellent guides.
Our own lodge was incredibly fresh and simple, just as in my dreams – but even better!
Spacey and open – in fact no walls on one side, so both shower and bedroom were open to the jungle. The only thing to separate us from the real world was a net, with all the sounds of the rainforest and its inhabitants just two steps away…I tell you, I have never slept better in my entire life. Birds, insects and howler monkeys feasting!
I remember staying in a clay and straw hut in the Nepalese jungle of Chitwan, in 1986, with giant spiders covering the ceiling and lizards and rats owning the mud floor. I did not sleep anything at all…even if I was young and brave.
We saw flycatchers and kingfishers among other birds, and in the waters below our breakfast house dwells….a cajman called Lucy!
On the night walk we met many animals…many crawlers (millipeeds too), possums and some spiders of gigantic size. One of the The tarantulas was a pink toed giant sitting high up under the roof of the butterfly house. We also saw a wolf spider about the same size…Crickets, grasshoppers and the world’s biggest ant – a bullet ant – who has got the worst bite in the world with terrible pain for 24 hours. ”Watch out where you put your hands” was the advice. They might walk on the same rails or twigs you happen to use…
My favourite was the charming tree frog of course…!
This was our first day at Sacha Lodge – and I just Loved every minute of it. For the next day we were promised parrots, weavers, a women’s collective, curare, arrows and local cooking, canoe through narrow rainforest waterways and maybe…anaconda.
Good night to our extremely initiated and knowledgeable guides, Pablo and Luis.
So, I will have to say goodbye for a while, again. Hopefully I will be back before Christmas. I want to thank you all so very much, readers, followers and friends who come visiting, liking, remarking, discussing – keeping me alive!
This trip will take me far away to a country I have never visited before. I am very excited about it, and I hope to tell you – and show you – more when I come back. Until then – have a great and joyous December!
Tiny, enigmatic worlds…
They fascinate and they haunt us…
Because they are still possible to fathom?
Because we realize that we cannot decide over or rule Nature?
Or is it because we deep inside know…that everything just might be too late…
Cee’s Black & White Photo Challenge: Looking Through a Window
The first two from Bilbao – Guggenheim museum. You see through the the first window glasses – but also see behind you mirrored. The second you only see through.
And a lovely little cat…
…from Greyfriars’, Edinburgh.
Leya 
Du måste vara inloggad för att kunna skicka en kommentar.