Thursday Thoughts – A Last Walk – Until Next Time, Aleksandr!

21 november, 201921 november, 2019 / Leya / 37 kommentarer

For the last hours of our walk together, we understood that Aleksandr had saved…

…some of the very finest of courtyards in Tbilisi. But – what is the finest is of course in the eye of the beholder. First some other special pieces we passed.

The leaning clock tower was created by the renowned Georgian puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze. On the hour, a window opens at the top and an angel strikes the bell. Below the clock, a screen opens and shows the circle of life: boy meets girl, marriage, childbirth and funeral.

Small bags like these were hung out with food for the poor

Colourful ladies were not many…

This courtyard, with a fantastic spiral staircase, was so amazing I had to return here the next day. With some luck, I found it again – but then without any laundry.

Aleksandr had earlier that day shown us some of his artwork and photos, so when we reached this well hidden courtyard – I recognized the spectacular wooden spiral staircase. I took a deep breath and started rather floating than walking in…

…to a dream. Just imagine what this place must have been like – say a hundred years ago… I hope you will enjoy this courtyard gallery of images from different angles – just could not stop myself. We stayed to talk some with the lovely family who lives here now.

They had restored the houses indoors, but the majestic staircase was for the authorities to restore…which unfortunately had not been done. I asked if they still used the staircase – the answer was Yes, and a moment later a man came running down those steps! It did Not look safe. I do hope they will save this architectural treasure for future generations. In Georgia they still have the skills and knowledge – but they should not wait too long.

I hate goodbyes…and with Aleksandr’s passionate soul, this time it was really hard for me. We had to leave him here with his exhibition in his favorite street, next to his favorite balcony. A very special man whom I am very grateful to have met.

Thank You, Aleksandr, for your warm and generous sharing of Tbilisi ♥

Thursday Thoughts – A Walk with Aleksandr in Old Tbilisi

14 november, 201919 november, 2019 / Leya / 38 kommentarer

First of all, I want to thank Viveka of myguiltypleasures for inspiring us to go to Georgia. She went there over Christmas and totally fell in love with the city.

The unmistakable charm of the Old Town, the history, the people, the food and wine, brought us here. We stayed for a week, but could easily have stayed longer. I know Viveka is going again this Easter. A bit envious…I am!

We decided to have a guide for one day – a real gentleman, recommended by Viveka, who had accidentally met Aleksandr at the end of her stay. And what he doesn’t know about Old Tblisi (Old Tiflis), its history and architecture – is not worth knowing. Let’s follow him along his favorite streets!

Open any door, and you will either find a staircase or a cat or two…

An old factory yard

The old Caravanseraj from the Silk Road days – imagine the caravan of camels and merchants entering here!

Havana vibes

Tuning

Aleksandr is a well known face in Old Town, and knows every street and every house. He is a former architect – which explains his faiblesse for the Old part of the city.

On the left hand side, according to Alexandr, you see the most beautiful balcony in town. The whole street is very beautiful – but what they are building at the end of this lovely row of balconies – I don’t know…

Around midday it was time to sit down for a glass of wine – resting in the shade. It was an unusually hot day for October, 27 degrees C.

In the streets, children were playing

And more laundry hanging…

…and carpentry

Finally… we were approaching his own favorite, Alexandre Dumas Street. Here the balconies and bay windows seem, if possible, even bigger than in other streets.

The old, cobbled Dumas is rather short and narrow. A document of times gone by – nothing yet demolished, reconstructed or changed. A short glance at Aleksandr, and the light in his eyes revealed just how much he loves his city.

On reaching the end though, we could see newly constructed buildings – and machines working – when the street took a left turn, and changed names.

Somewhere here we found a peaceful place to sit down and rest. Aleksandr’s tour is not over yet, but maybe next Thursday? I hope you enjoyed walking with us – you are very welcome back!

Thursday Thoughts – A Day with Georgian Historic Sites

7 november, 20197 november, 2019 / Leya / 28 kommentarer

We decided to take a day out of Tbilisi – for some of Georgia’s old historic sites. Uplistsikhe is an interesting ancient rock-hewn town in eastern Georgia, built on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. It is identified by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in the country.

As our eminent guide, Katie, led us through the remains of this once 20 000 people inhabited town – she told us that even if it was almost destroyed by the Mongolians in the 13th century, the area also suffers from frequent earthquakes, which finally finished its existence.

The town contains various structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages, and is notable for the unique combination of various styles of rock-cut cultures from Anatolia and Iran, as well as the coexistence of pagan and Christian architecture.

At the summit of the complex is a Christian basilica built of stone and brick in the 9th-10th centuries. (Another photo from it last Silent Sunday.)

The quiet interior is in perfect harmony. I felt completely at peace with myself, alone in the natural light, in a translucent sphere.

Archaeological excavations have discovered numerous artifacts of different periods, including gold, silver and bronze jewellery, and samples of ceramics and sculptures. Many of these artifacts are in the safekeeping of the National Museum in Tbilisi.

After this windy adventure, we left for Jvari Monastery (in the header, seen from Svetitskhoveli), whose name is translated as the ”Monastery of the Cross”. Jvari Monastery is a sixth century Georgian Orthodox monastery near Mtskheta, and is listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

Jvari is a rare case of the Early Medieval Georgian church that survived to the present day almost unchanged. The church became the founder of its type, the Jvari type of church architecture, prevalent in Georgia and Armenia.

The monastery stands on the rocky mountaintop at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, overlooking the town of Mtskheta.

Built atop of Jvari Mount (656 m a.s.l.), the monastery is an example of harmonious connection with the natural environment, characteristic to Georgian architecture.

We ventured down to Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta (this city also recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site), one of the oldest cities of Georgia, founded by the ancient Meschian tribes in the 5th century. It was capital of the early Georgian Kingdom of Iberia from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD, and continued to serve as the coronation and burial place for most kings of Georgia until the end of the kingdom in the 19th century.

The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (literally the Cathedral of the Living Pillar) is currently the second largest church building in Georgia, after the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi. Known as the burial site of Christ’s mantle, Svetitskhoveli has long been one of the principal Georgian Orthodox churches in the region. It is considered a masterpiece of the Early and High Middle Ages.

At the end of the day, our lovely, knowledgeable guide, Katie, waited patiently for her ”sheep” to return to their master.

Thursday Thoughts – Guest Blogger – Chernobyl, a Visit

31 oktober, 20191 november, 2019 / Leya / 38 kommentarer

My son went to Kiev and Chernobyl this Autumn, and I asked him if he would share some of his photos and impressions on this blog. He said yes, and I am happy to have him here once again. Hope you will enjoy his work!

I’ve wanted to visit Chernobyl for a long time. The combination of two of my biggest interests; urban exploration and history, took me here.

The worst nuclear disaster in history took place in April 26th 1986. A disaster releasing an amount of radioactivity equal to 400 Hiroshima bombs.

Pripyat had 50 000 citizens who were evacuated by bus, roughly 1,5 days after the accident. They were given false promises of coming back – and so they left everything, even their beloved pets.

Every corridor in the buildings I visited felt endless. Seemingly reaching for the end of the world.

The Middle School was modern and well equipped with both music halls and sports facilities. They even had a large storage where they kept child-sized Soviet gas masks, in case of an emergency..

This was one of five secondary schools in this town. Hundreds of children once ran up and down these corridors. It almost felt like all of these notebooks, documents and files tried to chase after their owners when they left.

There are an endless amount of houses out in the Chernobyl woods. Some hide treasures, but most of them are just husks. Although they are just as beautiful.

The Duga Radar was a so called ”over-the-horizon” radar that was supposed to detect missiles and airstrikes. Soon, it got the nickname ”The Russian Woodpecker” because of the repetitive tapping noise it caused at 10Hz on shortwave radios.

The radar itself is enormous – towering 150 meters high and around 700 meters wide.

The Azure Swimmingpool built in the 70s

Outside the Kindergarten

Infant beds in Pripyat Hospital

Cooling Tower #5

We managed to sneak past security and get a peek at cooling tower #5. It was supposed to pump large amounts of water around the reactor for cooling, but the tower was never finished after reactor #4 exploded.

The ”Palace of Culture Energetik” was a large community center for the citizen of Pripyat. ”Energetik” is a wordplay – meaning both ”energetic” and ”power plant worker”. The purpose was to have a wide range of recreational activities including a library, gym, swimming pool, dancing halls and the very theater in the image above.

Outside the Kindergarten

The gymnastics hall

1st, 2nd and 3rd floor of the middle school

I am barely even scratching the surface of the stories and the history of Chernobyl. If you are interested in learning more, I recommend the TV Series called ”Chernobyl” on HBO. They portray the disaster in an incredibly powerful and emotional way, while staying close to the facts and real life stories. I also recommend the book which the show is based on: ”Voices from Chernobyl” by Svetlana Alexievich.

I would love to answer any questions that you might have.

Regards,

David P

Thursday Thoughts – The Harvest is In

24 oktober, 20196 mars, 2020 / Leya / 32 kommentarer

We happened to land in Tbilisi the day before the annual October festival – two days of celebrating the grape harvest of the year. What luck! Follow me to the market!

The whole city on its feet, night and day. The first thing we noticed was the many ”braids” of candy called Churchkhela. Delicious! (Recipe in the link.)

They make long threads of mostly walnuts or hazelnuts, then dip them in boiled/cooked grape juice. A long process for several layers, but oh…the taste! We bough many with us home – all colours.

Everybody was out in the streets, and everywhere barbeques and makings of churchkhela!

The old Silk Road – the market kind…

You could buy almost anything…

Young and old alike

Flowers in their hair

Cheese for making the famous cheese bread: Kachapouri

The lovely ”Tree of Life”, by sculptor David Monavarlisashvili, offers so much to discover for children – and grown-ups… It greatly reminded me of one of my children’s favorite authors, Shaun Tan, his books and movies.

And the nights were warm, slowly walking the Rike Park and Peace Bridge. The bridge stretches 150 metres (490 ft) over the Kura River to create a contemporary design feature connecting Old Tbilisi with the new district. The official opening took place on May 6, 2010. Architect, Italian Michele De Lucchi.

Thursday Thoughts – Tbilisi, A Feast for the Eye

17 oktober, 201920 februari, 2020 / Leya / 38 kommentarer

Because of its location on the crossroads between Europe and Asia, and its proximity to the Silk Road, Tbilisi has kept its interest to various global powers. Tbilisi’s diverse history is reflected in its architecture, which is a mix of medieval, neoclassical, Beaux Arts, Art Nouveau, Stalinist and the Modern structures. Only one visit will not be enough to seek out all its secrets.

Historically, Tbilisi has been home to people of multiple cultural, ethnic, and religious backgrounds. You will find Mosques, Churches and Cathedrals side by side, and the people live in peace together.

Walking in the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi, is a walk filled with wonders and harmony. At least if you love architecture, open minded and smiling people, and gentle cats and dogs.

The first thing to learn, is never to pass a gate or a narrow passage without having a look inside. Just quietly walk in, the laundry lady will just smile and give you a nod.

You will always be greatly rewarded. Colours and harmony rules.

And the doors…I know of many who would swoon at the very sight of only one street…

Old iron gates and wooden balconies are characteristic of Tbilisi. I think I have hundreds of balcony images – maybe I will post some more …I cannot get enough of them.

Our first day in the city, we wanted to climb to the medieval Narikala Fortress, to get the best view of the city and the Kura river.

The city’s 1.5 million inhabitants were seeking the shades this hot day, and it really took some effort to walk all those steps. But every minute was a joy, stopping now and then to admire the view and for talking to all the lovely people.

Everywhere being inspected by the friendly cats and dogs of course…

On reaching a bench in the shadow, we had a Swedish ”fika”, admiring the view of the newer part of Tbilisi, the Sioni Cathedral and the Holy Trinity Cathedral.

In the header is the view of Old Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) and the new Peace Bridge reaching over the river Kura.

From the fortress and the slopes of the Botanical Gardens, we finished our first views of this charming and enigmatic city. Hopefully you will want to walk with me again – this is a city filled with art, gentle inhabitants and gorgeous food and wine. A Pearl of cities.

Thursday Thoughts – The Old Sallow

10 oktober, 20191 oktober, 2019 / Leya / 43 kommentarer

In the garden of our summer house stands a worthy old warden tree – a Sallow. Our children have climbed it every summer, and so did their father when he was a child. Sallows do not get very old, but this tree is a giant, and possibly about 100-150 years old. About double the age it ”should” get.

In the header he was still standing this Spring when we moved in.

But this is the sight that met us when we arrived for the final shut down for winter. Our children were sad to see it, and the only one who did not mind was Milo.

About a third of the trunk had fallen, but fortunately the little house managed without any damage. This sight was what we have feared to meet every Spring on our arrival – and now it was a fact. Hopefully the majestic tree will survive and thrive many years still. There is a sapling striving up right behind it – we tend to it with love.

Thursday Thoughts – The Whaling Station

26 september, 201925 september, 2019 / Leya / 18 kommentarer

Hvalfjörður is situated in the west of Iceland, and the fjord is approximately 30 km long and 5 km wide. The place has an interesting history.

During WWII, a naval base of the British and American navies could be found in this fjord. One of the piers built by the United States Navy is today used by the Hvalur whaling company for the processing of fin whales, partially for the domestic market, and mostly for export to Japan. None of this in 2019 though.

The origin of the name Hvalfjörður is uncertain. Certainly today there is no presence of whales in the fjord; while the only whaling station in Iceland is still located here. In the past the fjord also contained many herring fisheries.

Today the old buildings, and some newer ones, are still standing for the workers at the station, even if there were no workers this year. Only goats…

Outside the main building, we came across this lovely man and could ask him about old times, the navy men, the whales and the Japanese workers. In fact, as a young man he had worked as a whaler here himself. Now he was just trying to repair and maintain the houses.

Some of the small houses looked inhabited and we could see through the windows how cosy they were inside. A bit small, but much better than a tent. They could maybe be rented by tourists? I asked – but no, the government did not allow that. The huts were deemed too simple. We learned that they had no toilet and no kitchen. There was this main building for that purpose.

Thursday Thoughts – Centre of the Earth

19 september, 201924 februari, 2020 / Leya / 32 kommentarer

In Jules Verne’s A Journey to the Center of the Earth, Stapi is the last stop on the route the protagonists take before they climb Snæfellsjökull and enter the interior of the planet through a tunnel in the crater.

We didn’t intend to try any of these possibilities, but to hike along the coast line of the peninsula from Arnarstapi to Hellnar.

We encountered (I think you could say that…) spectacular landscapes this morning – the likes of nothing I had seen before.

Steep cliffs and birds, birds, birds…on this ca 4 km hike.

Amazing colours everywhere, almost no fellow hikers, sun, blue skies and no wind. Who could ask for more?

The further we went, the more the landscape opened up and the magnificent coastline became visible – with all its small rocks and islets –

– a spectacular archipelago.

Struggling through some rugged lava formations, I suddenly spotted three killer whales, orcas, in the blue waters ahead of us. I only got one shot working…then they were gone. But wow, how happy I was! I had never seen them live, in their natural habitat.

Gatklettur Arch

Gatklettur Arch – after some searching, we finally found it on our way back to Arnarstapi.

And the soft evening light kissed the earth. I sat down among the flowers, and listened to the strong feeling of Love for this Country, the stillness in the air, the beauty of this place. I watched the young girl, lying there, contemplating – and wondered if she too had seen the orcas…. To me, they were the icing on the cake this Icelandic summer’s day.

We returned to the two villages, Arnarstapi and Hellnar, the next day – just to savour their beauty once more before heading north… There just might be another post.

Thursday Thoughts – Hidden Hot Spring

12 september, 2019 / Leya / 25 kommentarer

Hunting hot springs in Autumn would have been great – but left them in Iceland. In Sweden it is getting colder now, and there is no more bathing in the sea…so, back to Iceland memories!

We had read about a very little hot pool, hidden in Landbrotalaug not far from the volcano Eldborg on the south coast of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. We decided to go for it.

The weather was splendid and the beautiful white cottongrass grew here abundantly…

Just when we thought we were lost, the hot water tap finally revealed the place.

With Snaefellsnes in the fond, we spotted the little pool – right out in the wild landscape. Two tents and a couple of people were there already. The bath can only take 1-2 persons at a time, so, Patience – and you will be greatly rewarded!

Wish I were there again!