Well, I have problems with the internet and accessing my site, lagottocattleya. When I am finally in, I soon get thrown out again. And I am home, not in our summer house where I always have trouble with it. This has continued for a week, and I am struggling. So, finally here are my thoughts:
Bathing on the north coast of Madeira is spectacular. Natural pools and lava – open sea. 15 years ago, they were totally natural, but today there are hundreds of tourists and the pools are modelled after it.
In fact these are now the most famous sea pools in Europe, and a joy to visit. Seen from the road above, Porto Moniz doesn’t look like much…but I can assure you it is well worth an hour or two for a cooling swim.
Time for our old favourite: Ribeiro Frio – Portela. The good old ”Landscapes of Madeira” book was in my pocket again.
Last time I walked this levada was when my mother was still with us and we decided to go to Madeira for a revival of good old hiking times. She was 75, and I knew this would be her last time here. Strangely enough, that is what we felt too, my husband and I, this year. This might be our last time, our last walk in Madeira. My husband is now the same age as my mother was in 2010, and we have been here so many times over the years.
The bus dropped us at Ribeiro Frio, and as usual its name was accurate – it was cold. This walk is 11 kilometers long and of moderate difficulty. Sure footedness and a head for heights is essential.
Let’s go – with beating heart and high expectations!
We decided to go to Balcoes first, where you can see all the way down to the sea. Misty mornings are not unusual …
… and this one was no exception. Luckily it lifted just in time for the great views!
So, where is the levada? This sidetrip to Balcoes does not follow a levada, but is truly worth it for the magnificent views.
As soon as there is a house or a road in sight – the path is adorned with Pride of Madeira. This is not their national flower though – which is the Strelizia.
We walked back to the starting point and Levada do Furado, where the main walk begins. It is a varied and beautiful walk, much travelled. Luckily it was not crowded at all, so it felt like good old times.
There are some steep parts, but in most places also good railings. A couple of tunnels as well, but today you can easily use your phone instead of the torch. We met many of the pretty Chaffinches – especially where hikers usually take a break to eat something. Totally unafraid of people they come jumping up to you, watching your every move with those pepper grain eyes.
At the restaurant in Portela, we had a well deserved dinner and a coffee, warming up a bit after the last 30 minutes of rain.
Oh, the scent, the lush landscape, the silent walk and the soothing trickle of water. I know mum would have loved it – again.
A levada is an irrigation channel or aqueduct specific to the Portuguese Atlantic region of Madeira. In the 16th century the Portuguese started building levadas to carry water to the agricultural regions in the south. Over 2,170 km (1,350 mi) of levadas were built and later provided a network of walking paths.
Due to the dangerously mountainous landscape, building levadas was often tasked to criminals and convicts from continental Portugal. Today levadas supply water and also provide hydro-electric power.
These are some scenes from a lovely levada along the south coast of Madeira. We walked this city border levada first, and later in the week returned to our favourite mountain levada. They are totally different. Ready? Let’s go!
We jumped off the local bus at Estreito de Camara de Lobos. The walk starts in a vineyard. We were grateful for the shadow!
The whole walk presented splendid views over the landscapes and the ocean.
Every now and then we met a local farmer on the path.
And – curious little friends peeping out for a closer look at us.
This is a very mountainous landscape, and the levada was sometimes redirected to another path because of overhanging cliffs and stones.
Workers in the heat of the day, a singing levada, fruits and berries among the flowers. And…lizards en masse!
Paths can provide easy and relaxing walks through the countryside, while others are narrow, crumbling ledges where a slip could result in injury or death. We walked the most dangerous ones in the 1980’s – today we would not take the risk.
Children played with the water of course – this little guy had built a boat for the levada – and as we passed him, we found his shoes too.
Animals are kept in little sheds – palheiros – I feel so sorry for them. Living in the mountains means not many places for grazing, and they could also slip and fall. I was so happy to find this beautiful goat in a massive field of lush grass! But, look closely at his horns – they are tied together.
Welcome back to Madeira, and something new to us – a rundown area had been neatly decorated by talented local artists. Rua de Santa Maria in downtown Funchal. We had walked here before, but this year we did with open eyes, savouring the varied door paintings.
They made the area shine! The street came alive with tourists visiting the galleries, the little restaurants and cafees. No tourists in my pictures though…
Colourful,
scary or fun – we found all sorts of painted doors. And sometimes we got a glimpse of the inside too –
– or what might be on the inside…
A walk to be recommended if you ever visit Funchal. There were many more doors than these, and I saw the whole menue vividly painted on one restaurant door!
Mmm… Madeira once more! My husband bought us tickets for one more trip to Madeira – the hiking paradise of our youth. There are endless hiking possibilities along the levadas carrying water to the city. The scent, the sound, the solitude. Unforgettable.
This is only a short Thursday entry, because there will be more posts from this charming island.
The last time I was there was with my children and my mother. We walked several levadas, not the most difficult ones, because my mother was 75 – but even if she was agile, I wanted us to be safe. And she loved it. Our forest walks at home used to be frequent and long. But, in Madeira the added sound of water swirling in the levadas is very soothing.
As in Portugal in general, the Azulejos are beautiful history tellers.
A must was always the Botanical Garden – and other gardens of course. Madeira is a flower Paradise – so there are many reasons for loving this island. Every time we visited, there was a new pattern in this open space. This summer it was geometrical.
A visit to the museum of their greatest son, Cristiano Ronaldo, was of course a must for my husband. But I rather enjoyed it too. The statue of CR was much debated when it was set up. I must say I didn’t like it then, but the one we saw here couldn’t have been the same – it looked much more like him now. Maybe they had to make a new one because of all the criticism??
Finally, the promenade we have walked so many times. It was good to see it again. Walk it again. Even if the city had changed very much in later years, this part felt warm and familiar.
Thank you for walking with me, there will be more of levadas, gardens and city walks in a couple of Thursday posts. Looking back sometimes is good for the overall perspective of your life.
Happy July 4 to you who celebrate, and hope you all are having a beautiful week!
This week Sofia invites us to continue in a relaxing mood, after the wonderful Books theme from last week. However, she wants us to focus on a different mellowness: a sense of softness, in tones or shapes, the slowness of a summer holiday, for example. That kind of relaxation. Please go to her beautiful site and find some very inviting and glorious inspiration!
Mellow is not a common word in my vocabulary, but my immediate thoughts went to Mellow Yellow – which I save to the end of my post.
I’ll start with a plant that softly spoke to me saying: touch me…
As Sofia pointed out, light is strongly connected to this feeling. Some morning light on the first spring anemonies.
Soft evening light when I walked out of the car and up to our house. The magnolia was the softest of soft and I just had to pick up my camera.
My favourite colour is green (as you know who follow me). Again a spring morning, with a fly and attached bouquet.
Yesterday I came back from a hiking vacation to Madeira – talking about mellow – every day was a wonder.
I love the little lizards basking on the sun warm stones – when I click my tongue they listen and sometimes even come up to me.
Mellow can also be so soft that the picture is somewhat blurred.
Lastly…
– some misty, Mellow Madeira Yellow! The mist softened the intense yellow and made the landscape dreamy.
And a close-up. Temptingly soft.
Remember to tag Lens-Artists and to link back to Sofia’s post when you join us. We’re looking forward to seeing your concepts of mellow.
Last week we had Ritva’s Books Challenge, and as books open our minds, the responses were varied and beautiful, truly inspiring.
Next week, Saturday 14th June, Beth is hosting for the first time so please visit her site for more information. Until then, take care and try some relaxing.
My son was born on the 14th of May – the most beautiful time of the year. I always go for long walks that day, feeling grateful for everything I have been given.
Leya 
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