Landscapes of Iceland – Thingvellir

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On our way to Thingvellir this cold and beautiful morning.

Þingvellir is a site of historical, cultural, and geological importance. It lies in a rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, at the northern end of Þingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland.

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AlÞingi, the Icelandic Parliament, was established at Þingvellir in 930, and remained there until 1798. The National Park was founded in 1930, marking the 1.000th anniversary of the Althing, and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.

The continental drift between the North American and Eurasian Plates can be clearly seen in the cracks faults which traverse the region, the largest one, Almannagjá, being a veritable canyon. This also often causes the earthquakes in the area.

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According to the Book of Settlements, the settlement of Iceland began in AD 874 when the Norwegian chieftain Ingólfur Arnarson became the first permanent settler on the island. Over the next centuries, people of Norse and Celtic origin settled in Iceland, and as the population grew there was a need for a general assembly.

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The foundation of the Icelandic parliament is said to be the founding of the nation of Iceland, and the first parliamentary proceedings in the summer of 930 laid the ground for a common cultural heritage and national identity. Þingvellir plays a central role in the history of the country.

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Þingvellir was the centre of Icelandic culture. Every year during the Commonwealth period, people would flock to Þingvellir from all over the country, sometimes numbering in the thousands. They set up dwellings with walls of turf and rock and temporary roofing and stayed in them for the two weeks of the assembly.

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The Drowning Pool for potential witches

Although the duties of the assembly were the main reason for going there, ordinary people gathered at Þingvellir for a wide variety of reasons. There were merchants, sword-sharpeners, tanners and entertainers – and ale-makers brewed ale to them all. News was told from distant parts; games and feasts were held. Itinerant farmhands looked for work and vagrants begged.

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A flagpole on Law Rock marks the place where the law was recited from.

Þingvellir was a meeting place for everyone in Iceland, laying the foundation for the language and the famous literature – the Eddas and the Sagas.

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A Law Rock of ones own?

In fact, still today, young people can read the old texts from the 12th century – not many languages have lasted that much unchanged. This is possible due to the conservative – and innovative and creative – use of the old words, combined with less borrowed words than any other language.  As an example: vegabréf is a combination of veg (road) and bréf (letter) = passport!

The landscape around Thingvellir – magnificAent.

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 Short historical facts: Wikipedia.
 

Land of Ice and Fire

On leaving Vik, the landscape slowly turned into even darker earth colours. A last glimpse of the church half way up in the mountains.

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Just around the mountain ridge, the landscape opened up to the sea again.

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A glacier river graced the crossroads. Mýrdalsjökull in low light.

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Arriving at Seljalandsfoss, Vestmannaeyar just sat in my lens…again.

The sun setting over the faraway islands, almost made me forget the Bride’s veil, Seljalandsfoss,  waiting for us on the mountain.

Fire on the left hand side – and ice on the other..

I do not understand how someone could have managed to get behind the falls this day – the icy path made us stay away from trying…But, as you can see, someone did.

I wonder what sort of shoes you must wear to manage this! Where is the path? This is the rail to the steps…

Windows capturing the last of the setting sun over Vestmannaeyar.

We slowly returned to Reykjavik, silent and very satisfied with this glorious day.

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Thursday Thoughts

I have been helping an old friend moving to a home for elderly and disabled people. Yesterday I helped her packing up the last things and putting everything into place. We went through all her paintings as well, to see how many she could use on the new walls and where to put them up. And the rest…I do not know…

She has been diagnosed with Alzheimers. Once she was so smart, sharp tounge and vivid mind and memory. She was even a candidate for a TV prize contest. These last three years…she has been losing everything…and now she can no longer manage on her own. She was also a famous dog breeder for 30 years and won international as well as national fame. Her last dog she could no longer take enough care of, so two weeks ago we went together to the veterinary to put him to sleep. Tough on her and tough on me.

This is so sad, the whole situation. So many people suffer from this disastrous disease. And my old friend has no family, no children – only a half brother. And they have not got along the last 20 years.

She has nobody – but me. Luckily, the last two years she has found a good friend in a new neighbour coming over with some food and cookies – and sometimes some company. I am so glad she is there, as I live 60 kilometres away and cannot visit every day.

When I came up the stairs, she met me with a weak smile – ”I don’t like it here, they are all numb and dumb…cannot speak or understand what I’m saying”. She moved in two weeks ago, after we had been working hard to get her this apartment as she was so alone and needed company in order to eat properly and function socially. She had help four times a day and got food and cleaning as well.

”They are not kind to me here”, she says. ”I want to move.”

We have known each other for 40 years. Now I am searching for my old friend behind those gentle eyes…but I’m afraid she might no longer be there.

 

 

 

More South Iceland Magic

Leaving Eyafjallajökull, the golden light followed us on our way to Skógar and Skógafoss (60m high and 25m long).

The water sprinkled a cold and frosty shimmer and our shadows grew even longer.

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Not many people here – and even fewer ventured close to the foss…icicles formed directly in your hair.

Just around the corner, there is an open air museum where the houses are free to visit. The 18th century typical turf cottages with furniture and all.

The sun very low but our spirits high when we entered the car again for Vik, the southernmost village in Iceland. In my memory, one of the most enigmatic places in this part of Iceland – and indeed it still is!

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The chocolate brown cliffs and seastacks…

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and the black sand rustling…

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in the roaring waves…

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slowly turning into gold in the setting sun

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Pure magic –

I wanted to stay in that moment alone –

In these surroundings, Njal and Gunnar, in the old Saga, lived and died…Markarfljot is not far away…They did not believe in the same Gods, but the two of them were the best of friends. Standing by the sea tonight I could imagine, maybe…why.

But, within an hour the sun would be gone, and we just had to catch a last glimpse of Seljalandsfoss as well. After all, I believe she is a ”she”, letting down her laced veil for us who cannot walk her to the altar…