Every year I am eagerly looking for a little creature that I first met in France, and then – in September 2022 it visited my own garden!
The Hummingbird Hawkmoth. When I first saw it in that European garden many years ago, I thought it was a hummingbird – but knew it couldn’t be… So fast, so energetic and so beautiful.
Then a couple of these fasciating creatures visited my garden, 2022 and 2023. Nothing last year…I even planted this particular salvia to make them come back to me.
Then suddenly, last week, when we had a spell of summer again – I saw one of them in my Buddleia! The salvias were almost gone, so I really had given up hope for this year too. It was too dark for photos though – you have to make do with the old ones.
Little things – they make me happy. And – we should never give up hope, should we?
I am dreaming myself back to Madeira again… We’ve had a wonderful summer here in Sweden, but now Autumn is in full swing with wind, rain, and much cooler temperatures.
So, I allow myself to contemplate for a while, just like this lady among flowers and lush greenery.
But, I love wandering in cactus and succulent gardens too. These are from the cacti collection in the Botanical Garden of Madeira.
I have some cacti in my home, but mostly epiphyllums – no spikes! My biggest cactus (with huge spikes…)has fallen and hit me hard a couple of times – it is taller than me.
Begonias in splendid show at Monte Gardens.
I just had to have one of these, so, I brought one home, now sitting in my window waiting to come outside next summer.
I love Madeira for many reasons – one of them is their exquisite stone layered streets. Here together with exquisite Bougainvillea too. Grey colours and the vibrance of this flower/tree go so well together.
There are some forgotten gardens as well…and houses. But even those ones are lush and quite beautiful. This one was carefully guarded by fiercely barking dogs.
Ferns have a special place in my heart. Big or small – any size.
And one of my favourite ferns grow abundantly in Madeira. Back home in June, I promptly bought two Dicksonia Antarctica. A friend of mine has successfully brought up one of this species, but they have to stay in an orangerie to manage our winters. I will give it a try too. At least the summer went well for both of them!
So, it’s the end of a wonderful summer – but also a frightening summer with far too high temperatures.
The little port at the other side of the water, is glowing in the morning sun. It’s September, and temperatures should be falling. Should be…but are not. We swim every day in the warm sea.
I pick up Milo and we walk along the summer houses by the water. The neighbours let their flowers invade the walk, and I love those high, handsome bells.
As we head for the meadows and the canal, one of the big herons sweeps over our heads. It is the last visit to our summer house this year, and I always feel sad to say goodbye to this beloved place. A piece of freedom – a haven of peacefulness it is. And when the summer tourists have left, everything is quiet, and Mother Nature can take it back and have it all to herself.
The car is packed, and we drive back home again. The first thing to do is to water all the plants and flowers. Hardly any rain fell here this summer, and some plants didn’t survive. We don’t have our own well – so – there are choices to be made. Which plants or flowers do I absolutely want to live? Which ones must I let go?
It’s easier indoors, where I can close the blinds and and save all the plants from the scorching sun.
I try not to think about that ominous heat – only to love the beautiful summer we had. But, something is very wrong with the climate. And – with many other things in this world. Still, I am grateful for a wonderful summer with family and friends. They are my hope. I hope you had a lovely summer too. Or the season you are in.
September is the first Autumn month, and a long warm Summer is drawing to its close. We’ve had a glorious time – a bit too hot for me, but bright, cooler mornings and evenings.
We have spent extra much time at our summer house with children and grandchildren. Precious days to remember as cold and darkness is arriving.
We haven’t had any rain for two months, so my garden is dry and most flowers are gone. These are some that still were here a couple of weeks ago, but most of them have now given in.
I have been waiting for the lovely hummingbird hawkmoth – and yesterday it arrived! No pictures though – but I hope to see it again another day this week. Have a great day!
The historic quinta ‘estate’ and orchid garden has been in the Garton family for over a century and is now run by Patrick Garton in Funchal, Madeira, and is open to the public and groups all year round. It was a must to visit there again. Last time was at least 30 years ago.
On our many Madeira travels we used to visit several orchid gardens, but this time we could not find any of those. We learned from a bus driver that at least one of them was burned down in the fires some years ago. And no one could answer to the question if Boa Vista was still open.
The road up to the Quinta displayed abandoned houses and gardens, and when the road finally turned into a gravel path, we began to fear the worst. Maybe the orchid garden wasn’t there at all anymore?
The BOA VISTA ORCHID GARDEN was founded in the 1960s by the late Group Captain Cecil Garton, O.B.E., in the grounds of Quinta da Boa Vista, which had been in his family for the past 100 years or so. After 30 years in the Royal Air Force, latterly spent as Air Attache in Lisbon and Madrid, he retired to Madeira where he devoted himself to developing the Quinta garden and to growing orchids. Cecil Garton’s widow, Betty (Elizabeth Hera Garton), is the daughter of Sir William Cooke, one of the pioneers of orchid breeding, particularly of Cymbidiums, besides being a collector of rare and beautiful natural species. (Madeira Web)
After some mistakes of direction, two phone calls and a lost husband – I finally reached the Quinta. It had been a looong walk uphill. I didn’t recognize the place at all – it felt a bit neglected and not many orchids blooming. The season had peaked, I knew, but still. Patrick met me in the yard, and before I could say anything at all, he delivered a litany of complaints about the status of things. Both his business and things in general.
After some 10 minutes, I almost regretted coming there. Then my husband called and wondered if I had found the place – and I described the path to him. Five long minutes later he arrived – and saved me.
We tried to remind Patrick why we were there, and could finally enter the greenhouses. I did not take many photos, since he kept me spellbound about the orchid breeding and his interesting life and work. He was very knowledgeable and scientific (Oxford degree) – a real gem. There was no question that he could not answer. After an hour or so, I understood the magnitude of his problems with the business and why he was so upset. His father had died many years ago, and in 2017 his mother – the pillar of the Quinta’s business – died. Taking care of hundreds (or thousands…) of orchids was now more or less up to Patrick alone. He was short of helping hands and had recently lost his main gardener too. ”People don’t want to work this hard anymore”, he said. And ”their education and horticultural training is of poor quality.”
I felt so sorry for him being in such a desperate situation. But, I was happy to hear he had the two Laeliocattleya orchids I wanted (they can no longer be found in Sweden). Unfortunately they were in the nursery so I could not buy them. I bought another Laeliocattleya instead – to have at least one of my favourite orchids in my own house is a must. (Also in my blog name ”Lagottocattleya”.)
Back home again I realised we had arrived at the back of the mansion and gone directly to the shop and nursery. No wonder I didn’t recognize it! I also found Patrick’s request for volunteers on the internet. Hopefully he will get help to keep up this renowned old Quinta. Had I been younger…I would have offered my help on the spot! Do you know of anyone interested?
Boa Vista Orchids welcomes volunteers; please see the contact information below.
Quinta da Boa Vista Rua Lombo da Boa Vista 9050-126 Funchal Telephone: (+351) 291 220 468 Fax: (+351) 291 230 309 E-mail:patrickgarton@hotmail.com
Another lovely walk was through the Gardens of Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro. A property belonging to the Blandy family.
They boast some of the most valuable and rare exotic plants on the island. Starting in 1885, the Blandy family has developed the gardens to a today’s Mecca for botanic lovers.
They are renowned among other things for the splendid Camellia selection – but unfortunately we arrived after that intense bloom. On the other hand – there was so much else to see. Here is a short gallery:
The garden is situated with a beautiful view over Funchal, and luckily we had it all to ourselves for an hour or two. I’ll give the plant names a try: First out – a Gladiolous, in a fabulous combo of colours, Gazania, then some slipper flowers (yellow and red), a crassula (Buddha’s Temple?) and some beautifully cut and trimmed hedges.
Next are bluish and pink flowers in Watsonia, Brunfelsia and I guess a Risp. The last picture shows a Japanese Pagoda tree.
This was a relaxing and interesting visit to one of Madeira’s most renowned gardens. I recommend a visit if you go to Madeira!
Madeira always holds a moderate and soft temperature. That’s why it is a haven for both flowers and people. We walked the old streets to see if we could still recognize something from long ago…
…and we did. The typical black and white stones and street patterns of course, but also Zarco’s house, the Portuguise who colonised Madeira. The second picture shows our first hotel in Madeira, Monte Carlo, and the next picture shows the view from there. They kindly let us in to look at the premises again, and could not believe we stayed there as early as in the 1980’s. Fond memories!
Well, I have problems with the internet and accessing my site, lagottocattleya. When I am finally in, I soon get thrown out again. And I am home, not in our summer house where I always have trouble with it. This has continued for a week, and I am struggling. So, finally here are my thoughts:
Bathing on the north coast of Madeira is spectacular. Natural pools and lava – open sea. 15 years ago, they were totally natural, but today there are hundreds of tourists and the pools are modelled after it.
In fact these are now the most famous sea pools in Europe, and a joy to visit. Seen from the road above, Porto Moniz doesn’t look like much…but I can assure you it is well worth an hour or two for a cooling swim.
Time for our old favourite: Ribeiro Frio – Portela. The good old ”Landscapes of Madeira” book was in my pocket again.
Last time I walked this levada was when my mother was still with us and we decided to go to Madeira for a revival of good old hiking times. She was 75, and I knew this would be her last time here. Strangely enough, that is what we felt too, my husband and I, this year. This might be our last time, our last walk in Madeira. My husband is now the same age as my mother was in 2010, and we have been here so many times over the years.
The bus dropped us at Ribeiro Frio, and as usual its name was accurate – it was cold. This walk is 11 kilometers long and of moderate difficulty. Sure footedness and a head for heights is essential.
Let’s go – with beating heart and high expectations!
We decided to go to Balcoes first, where you can see all the way down to the sea. Misty mornings are not unusual …
… and this one was no exception. Luckily it lifted just in time for the great views!
So, where is the levada? This sidetrip to Balcoes does not follow a levada, but is truly worth it for the magnificent views.
As soon as there is a house or a road in sight – the path is adorned with Pride of Madeira. This is not their national flower though – which is the Strelizia.
We walked back to the starting point and Levada do Furado, where the main walk begins. It is a varied and beautiful walk, much travelled. Luckily it was not crowded at all, so it felt like good old times.
There are some steep parts, but in most places also good railings. A couple of tunnels as well, but today you can easily use your phone instead of the torch. We met many of the pretty Chaffinches – especially where hikers usually take a break to eat something. Totally unafraid of people they come jumping up to you, watching your every move with those pepper grain eyes.
At the restaurant in Portela, we had a well deserved dinner and a coffee, warming up a bit after the last 30 minutes of rain.
Oh, the scent, the lush landscape, the silent walk and the soothing trickle of water. I know mum would have loved it – again.
A levada is an irrigation channel or aqueduct specific to the Portuguese Atlantic region of Madeira. In the 16th century the Portuguese started building levadas to carry water to the agricultural regions in the south. Over 2,170 km (1,350 mi) of levadas were built and later provided a network of walking paths.
Due to the dangerously mountainous landscape, building levadas was often tasked to criminals and convicts from continental Portugal. Today levadas supply water and also provide hydro-electric power.
These are some scenes from a lovely levada along the south coast of Madeira. We walked this city border levada first, and later in the week returned to our favourite mountain levada. They are totally different. Ready? Let’s go!
We jumped off the local bus at Estreito de Camara de Lobos. The walk starts in a vineyard. We were grateful for the shadow!
The whole walk presented splendid views over the landscapes and the ocean.
Every now and then we met a local farmer on the path.
And – curious little friends peeping out for a closer look at us.
This is a very mountainous landscape, and the levada was sometimes redirected to another path because of overhanging cliffs and stones.
Workers in the heat of the day, a singing levada, fruits and berries among the flowers. And…lizards en masse!
Paths can provide easy and relaxing walks through the countryside, while others are narrow, crumbling ledges where a slip could result in injury or death. We walked the most dangerous ones in the 1980’s – today we would not take the risk.
Children played with the water of course – this little guy had built a boat for the levada – and as we passed him, we found his shoes too.
Animals are kept in little sheds – palheiros – I feel so sorry for them. Living in the mountains means not many places for grazing, and they could also slip and fall. I was so happy to find this beautiful goat in a massive field of lush grass! But, look closely at his horns – they are tied together.
Leya 
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