Thursday Thoughts – The Harvest is In

We happened to land in Tbilisi the day before the annual October festival – two days of celebrating the grape harvest of the year. What luck! Follow me to the market!

The whole city on its feet, night and day. The first thing we noticed was the many ”braids” of candy called Churchkhela. Delicious! (Recipe in the link.)

They make long threads of mostly walnuts or hazelnuts, then dip them in boiled/cooked grape juice. A long process for several layers, but oh…the taste! We bough many with us home – all colours.

The lovely ”Tree of Life”, by sculptor David Monavarlisashvili, offers so much to discover for children – and grown-ups… It greatly reminded me of one of my children’s favorite authors, Shaun Tan, his books and movies.

And the nights were warm, slowly walking the Rike Park and Peace Bridge. The bridge stretches 150 metres (490 ft) over the Kura River to create a contemporary design feature connecting Old Tbilisi with the new district. The official opening took place on May 6, 2010. Architect, Italian Michele De Lucchi.

Thursday Thoughts – Tbilisi, A Feast for the Eye

Because of its location on the crossroads between Europe and Asia, and its proximity to the Silk Road, Tbilisi has kept its interest to various global powers. Tbilisi’s diverse history is reflected in its architecture, which is a mix of medieval, neoclassical, Beaux Arts, Art Nouveau, Stalinist and the Modern structures. Only one visit will not be enough to seek out all its secrets.

Historically, Tbilisi has been home to people of multiple cultural, ethnic, and religious backgrounds. You will find Mosques, Churches and Cathedrals side by side, and the people live in peace together.

Walking in the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi, is a walk filled with wonders and harmony. At least if you love architecture, open minded and smiling people, and gentle cats and dogs.

The first thing to learn, is never to pass a gate or a narrow passage without having a look inside. Just quietly walk in, the laundry lady will just smile and give you a nod.

You will always be greatly rewarded. Colours and harmony rules.

And the doors…I know of many who would swoon at the very sight of only one street…

Old iron gates and wooden balconies are characteristic of Tbilisi. I think I have hundreds of balcony images – maybe I will post some more …I cannot get enough of them.

Our first day in the city, we wanted to climb to the medieval Narikala Fortress, to get the best view of the city and the Kura river.

The city’s 1.5 million inhabitants were seeking the shades this hot day, and it really took some effort to walk all those steps. But every minute was a joy, stopping now and then to admire the view and for talking to all the lovely people.

Everywhere being inspected by the friendly cats and dogs of course…

On reaching a bench in the shadow, we had a Swedish ”fika”, admiring the view of the newer part of Tbilisi, the Sioni Cathedral and the Holy Trinity Cathedral.

In the header is the view of Old Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) and the new Peace Bridge reaching over the river Kura.

From the fortress and the slopes of the Botanical Gardens, we finished our first views of this charming and enigmatic city. Hopefully you will want to walk with me again – this is a city filled with art, gentle inhabitants and gorgeous food and wine. A Pearl of cities.

Thursday Thoughts – The Old Sallow

In the garden of our summer house stands a worthy old warden tree – a Sallow. Our children have climbed it every summer, and so did their father when he was a child. Sallows do not get very old, but this tree is a giant, and possibly about 100-150 years old. About double the age it ”should” get.

In the header he was still standing this Spring when we moved in.

But this is the sight that met us when we arrived for the final shut down for winter. Our children were sad to see it, and the only one who did not mind was Milo.

About a third of the trunk had fallen, but fortunately the little house managed without any damage. This sight was what we have feared to meet every Spring on our arrival – and now it was a fact. Hopefully the majestic tree will survive and thrive many years still. There is a sapling striving up right behind it – we tend to it with love.

 

Thursday Thoughts – The Whaling Station

Hvalfjörður is situated in the west of Iceland, and the fjord is approximately 30 km long and 5 km wide. The place has an interesting history.

During WWII, a naval base of the British and American navies could be found in this fjord. One of the piers built by the United States Navy is today used by the Hvalur whaling company for the processing of fin whales, partially for the domestic market, and mostly for export to Japan. None of this in 2019 though.

The origin of the name Hvalfjörður is uncertain. Certainly today there is no presence of whales in the fjord; while the only whaling station in Iceland is still located here. In the past the fjord also contained many herring fisheries.

Today the old buildings, and some newer ones,  are still standing for the workers at the station, even if there were no workers this year. Only goats…

Outside the main building, we came across this lovely man and could ask him about old times, the navy men, the whales and the Japanese workers. In fact, as a young man he had worked as a whaler here himself. Now he was just trying to repair and maintain the houses.

Some of the small houses looked inhabited and we could see through the windows how cosy they were inside. A bit small, but much better than a tent. They could maybe be rented by tourists? I asked – but no, the government did not allow that. The huts were deemed too simple. We learned that they had no toilet and no kitchen. There was this main building for that purpose.

 

Thursday Thoughts – Centre of the Earth

In Jules Verne’s  A Journey to the Center of the Earth, Stapi is the last stop on the route the protagonists take before they climb Snæfellsjökull and enter the interior of the planet through a tunnel in the crater.

We didn’t intend to try any of these possibilities, but to hike along the coast line of the peninsula from Arnarstapi  to Hellnar.

We encountered (I think you could say that…) spectacular landscapes this morning – the likes of nothing I had seen before.

Steep cliffs and birds, birds, birds…on this ca 4 km hike.

Amazing colours everywhere, almost no fellow hikers, sun, blue skies and no wind. Who could ask for more?

Island 2019 1069-Redigera

The further we went, the more the landscape opened up and the magnificent coastline became visible – with all its small rocks and islets –

– a spectacular archipelago.

Struggling through some rugged lava formations, I suddenly spotted three killer whales, orcas,  in the blue waters ahead of us. I only got one shot working…then they were gone. But wow, how happy I was! I had never seen them live, in their natural habitat.

Gatklettur Arch

Gatklettur Arch – after some searching, we finally found it on our way back to Arnarstapi.

And the soft evening light kissed the earth. I sat down among the flowers, and listened to the strong feeling of Love for this Country, the stillness in the air, the beauty of this place. I watched the young girl, lying there, contemplating – and wondered if she too had seen the orcas…. To me, they were the icing on the cake this Icelandic summer’s day.

We returned to the two villages, Arnarstapi and Hellnar, the next day – just to savour their beauty once more before heading north… There just might be another post.

 

 

 

 

 

Thursday Thoughts – Hidden Hot Spring

Hunting hot springs in Autumn would have been great – but left them in Iceland. In Sweden it is getting colder now, and there is no more bathing in the sea…so, back to Iceland memories!

We had read about a very little hot pool, hidden in Landbrotalaug not far from the volcano Eldborg on the south coast of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. We decided to go for it.

The weather was splendid and the beautiful white cottongrass grew here abundantly…

Just when we thought we were lost, the hot water tap finally revealed the place.

With Snaefellsnes in the fond, we spotted the little pool – right out in the wild landscape. Two tents and a couple of people were there already. The bath can only take 1-2 persons at a time, so, Patience – and you will be greatly rewarded!

Wish I were there again!

Thursday Thoughts – The Philharmonic Hall, Szczecin

From colour down to black and white – this concert hall is a fabulous piece of architecture. Viveka and I had a good hour’s rest here with a nice cup of coffee.

The architectural design resembles a palace of ice,

and was created by Barozzi Veiga, a Barcelona-based architect’s studio.

Finished 2014, it has two concert halls and can accommodate 1.145 people in all.

The Philharmonic Hall edifice has won many prestigious awards in architectural competitions.

Its greatest success is the European Union prize for contemporary architecture –

Mies van der Rohe Award, 2015.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thursday Thoughts – Iceland, Life on Earth and at Sea

Djupalónsandur beach lets you meet sea, rocks and the remains of the British trawler Epine – that went down off the coast in 1948.

And of course there are enigmatic lava formations. You get a glimpse of snowcapped Snaefellsjökull  volcano through the holes.

Once this bay was home to one of the most prolific fishing villages on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Today this area is uninhabited.

Except for the old rusty debris from Epine, four lifting stones still lie on the sands of Djúpalónssandur, in olden days used by fishermen to test their strength. Today tourists and children roam the beach to look at the rusty pieces, and many of them test their  abilities – and possibilities – of getting hired as seamen…

This was quite a special walk where many thoughts were coming and going… The harsh lives of seafarers and society changing fast. And, will there be any fish in the sea for our children?

Thursday Thoughts – Water, Harbour and Water Games

I thought I would post something of the lovely waters from Stettin/Szczecin, Poland.

We went there for a week with Viveka of My Guilty Pleasures – so she has got some splendid views from our visit!

No guide beats Viveka – and when it comes to restaurants and food…

Nothing compares to U – Wivi!

The harbour tour we had to do on our own, because Viveka was not feeling well this day.

And when walking back to our apartment, we watched some of the water games. Skilled guys, and the high diving was spectacular. Look at the bridge shot and you will find a girl diving – just below the bridge, head first. Wonder how high it was – I could not find any facts on it.

We enjoyed our stay immensely – wonderful people, city, fireworks, games, food. And company! Festivities for two days. Not expensive either – to be recommended! Poland never disappoints – and neither does Viveka. Thank you for taking us!

 

 

Thursday Thoughts – Vatasafn/Library of Water

Vatasafn, Stykkishólmur, Snaefellsnes peninsula. This Library of Water, by Roni Horn, opened in 2007 – a constellation of 24 glass columns containing water from some of the major glaciers around Iceland.

In fact, the first attempts to methodically record meteorological conditions in Iceland started exactly here in the mid – 19th century.

The glass columns refract and reflect the light onto a rubber floor with words in Icelandic and English which relate to the weather. ”You are the weather”, Horn says .

The New York born artist has visited Iceland many times since the mid – 70s, and knows that weather is the prime force in Iceland. Weather often changes mood and personality – good or tough for the residents – but also an important thing to be well prepared for when you visit.

This installation is housed in a pavilion on top of a hill, with spellbinding views of the harbour as well as the surrounding landscape and seascape. I found the Library offers a serene and silent space for private reflection. I easily stayed for more than an hour, alone, but would have loved to come here often.

Weather is a metaphor for the atmosphere of the world; weather is a metaphor for the atmosphere of ones life; weather is a metaphor for the physical, metaphysical, political, social, and moral energy of a person and a place.

– Roni Horn