For Paula and Traces of the Past. Layers from long ago – photographed in the glacier area in New Zealand.
Travel
Plovdiv – New Town – A Perfect Combo
The history of Plovdiv spans more than eight millennia. The numerous nations that lived here have left their traces on the twelve-metre-thick (39 feet) cultural layers of the city. The earliest signs of habitation on the territory of Plovdiv date as far back as the 6th millennium BC…
As we left the Old Town and entered the New…we realized that the whole city is a gem. Walking down the main street, a warm and sunny afternoon, the surprises unfolded – one after the other.
The Ancient Roman Stadium of Plovdiv was built in the 2nd century, during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, and lies beneath the main street from Dzhumaya Square to Kamenitsa Square. It was modeled after the stadium in Delphi. The Plovdiv stadium was approximately 240 metres (790 feet) long and 50 metres (160 feet) wide, and could seat up to 30 000 spectators. Below is the entrance to the stadium.
The athletic games at the stadium were organised by the General Assembly of the province of Thrace. In their honour the royal mint of Philippopolis coined money featuring the face of the ruling emperor as well as the types of athletic events held in the stadium.
Only a small part of the northern section with 14 seat rows can be seen today; the larger part lies under the main street and a number of buildings.
But, you can step down through the layers and meet the combination old/new in a very fascinating setting, with café’s, shops and …steps and stairs from different times.
Atlas? Keeping us safe. Holding the World.
I do not think I have ever visited a city that manages to combine the Old with the New as gracefully and innovatively as Plovdiv. I more than understand the choice of this city for European Capital of Culture in 2019. I might return then… there is much more to discover here! Maybe I will see you there – 2019?
Wordless Wednesday
CFFC: Letter L – Needs to have at least two syllables
Cee’s Fun Foto Challenge: Letter L – Needs to have at least two syllables
Well – it had to be a lagotto of course…and a Lego Lady (or two).
Plovdiv – Old Town, 6th Millenium BC
Plovdiv is the second largest city in Bulgaria, with a population of about 342 000 inhabitants. Plovdiv has evidence of habitation since the 6th millennium BC, and is said to be one of the oldest cities in Europe.
The city of Plovdiv has a long history – and almost as many names as rulers – best known for Philippopolis, ”Philip’s Town”, as Philip II of Macedon conquered it in the 4th century BC and gave his name to it. The city was originally a Thracian settlement, later being invaded by Persians, Greeks, Celts, Romans, Goths, Huns, Bulgarians, Slav-Vikings, Crusaders and Turks. On 4 January 1878, Plovdiv was liberated from Ottoman rule by the Russian army. It remained within the borders of Bulgaria until July of the same year, when it became the capital of the autonomous Ottoman region of Eastern Rumelia. In 1885, Plovdiv and Eastern Rumelia joined Bulgaria.
Having read this…and more – we just had to go there. What would a city like this look like? So many conquerors and rulers, so many different ideas, art and architecture.
So, contemplating this on the bus, the beauty of the landscape and the snow capped mountains kept our eyes open.
The old town in Plovdiv is located on three of Plovdiv’s (originally seven) hills: Nebet Tepe, Dzhambaz Tepe and Taksim Tepe. Today there are only six hills left, because the seventh one was taken down to become cobble stones for the streets. The old town in Plovdiv is included in UNESCO World Heritage tentative list since 2004.
At first we could walk peacefully in the quiet streets…but then it seemed every school in the neighborhood flooded the alleyways.
A happy woman!
Exchanging love letters, (maybe kisses?), sugar and more…was easily done as the houses reached over the streets!
2019 – I understand why this city was elected!
Balabanov house is emblematic for the cultural life in Plovdiv. It hosts numerous events such as theatrical performances, concerts, exhibitions, literature readings. The house was built in the 19th century
The importance of Trip Advisor…….
Our main goal was the ancient theatre – with seats today for 3500 people. (Originally for 5000-7000 people).
The Roman theatre of Plovdiv is one of the world’s best-preserved ancient theatres. It was constructed during Roman Emperor Trajan (reigned 98–117 AD), and it is currently in use for operas, concerts, plays and more. The theatre was restored in the 1960’s, and is one of the most valuable monuments from the ancient city of Philippopolis.
People have lived here from prehistoric times, and the place is today a combination of the culture and architecture from Antiquity, Middle Ages and Bulgarian revival.
A former monastery turned into a private house – but kept the old excavations
The house of Argir Hristov Kuyumdzhioglu, a merchant from Plovdiv, was built in 1847, and has been described as a prime example of Plovdiv’s mid-19th century Baroque architecture. The house has a symmetric facade; it is two stories tall on its west side and four stories tall on its east side. The Kuyumdzhioglu House spreads over 570 square metres and has 12 rooms and airy salons (where each room has a carved wood ceiling)- and 130 windows. Both the house’s interior and exterior boast sophisticated floral motives. The municipality bought the house in 1838, carried out renovations, and organized it as an ethnographic museum.
The lonely tree might not be very old, but it stands overlooking the remains of the olden days as well as the newer city. I wonder what he/she is thinking?
Sofia – Day and Night
The symbol of the city, Sveta Sofia – Saint Sophia, stands on a 48 feet high pedestal at a big crossroads in the city centre of Sofia. The 24 feet, copper and bronze statue by the sculptor Georgi Chapkanov, was erected in 2000, and stands in a spot once occupied by a statue of Lenin, and before him, a statue of Apollon.
Sophia was considered too erotic and pagan to be referred to as a saint, and she is not even highlighted, like many other statues are. Still, she carries the symbols of power (crown), fame (wreath) and wisdom (owl). The crown is also a reference to the Goddess of Fate – Tyche, inspired by the old emblem of Sofia dating back to 1900.
I think I prefer this handsome gentleman in traditional uniform…He kindly let me take a photo, and I was so pleased.
A walk with more of my impressions of the city –
The main shoppingstreet is Vitosha – and you can see the Vitosha mountain at the far end
The theatre in an enchanting setting!
In the header – the gem of the city: The Alexandar Nevski Cathedral
We met this old lady walking alone along Solunska Street at night. Later we found her – and a friend of hers – sleeping in the buzzle of restaurants and people
Buying an Icon – someone?
Vitosha Street
The Russian War Monument…was best seen in the late evening light
Of course I have to finish with a gorgeous tram…at least I think it is gorgeous. Not new, emerald green, squeaking and rattling along the street – no risk being run over!
It Is All About… Books!
Books, books…art and culture. One of the reasons to why I love visiting the eastern countries in Europe is just that. I get my share of childhood joy and my faiblesse for books.
Inside, there are more than 8 million books. Just think about all the catalogues there must be…these were only a few. Do you remember the era before the digital boom?
This is the outside of the National Library. Slightly resemblance to…books on shelves?
The outdoor book market was a dream – even though I did not understand much and could not buy that many books. You can always look, and be tempted! As you can see in the header, many other things could be bought here as well.
The ordinary library for grown-ups had a typical touch of the communist era. (Bulgaria was not liberated until the 1980’s.) Colours, shelves, floor and …books. Almost all the books were paperbacks – no hardbacks. And they were all ”well” read.
Even the benches outside were dedicated to books!
The entrance to the childrens library had an unmistakable sign…our Swedish Pippi Longstocking. Did you know she has been translated into 92 different languages? Astrid Lindgren still belongs to the future!
The children’s library was much more modern, and the reading rooms had furniture and curtains from IKEA.
The ladies working here were very helpful and informative. We had an invigorating chat about children and books. No problem in this country with reading – most children love it. And for small children the books are free to borrow. Older children had to pay a very small sum/year.
Beware of book worms – Bulgaria is a dream country!
Cultural Café
We wanted to visit the National Palace of Culture in Sofia, but it was closed and a veritable construction site. I was dying for a nice cup of coffee along with some cultural events…but the building seemed totally abandoned.
Nothing wrong with a construction site…if you can find a place like this when you step down into the underground..
A slight drizzle, and my stomach was making sounds…but when we had totally given up on this place and walked down some steps to get to the street again – suddenly there emerged a big window with BOOKS. From nowhere. Nothing with books can go wrong, so we opened the door and stepped inside…
…a café! A place reminding me of my university years with not too expensive coffee’s, nice company and working in two’s or more. My eyes and spirits went up and I just took it in…..feeling the coziness and the warmth instead of the by now rather chilly, hostile weather outdoors.
We stayed for an hour at least and left with big smiles on our faces ;-D
It went on drizzling – but we felt good all the way home! Keep reading! And…some tea is OK as well…
Bulgarian Clash – Art, Architecture, Preservation
Bulgaria has always been a country situated between important trade roads and markets. Being in the centre of theBalkan peninsula, it is midway between the Black Sea and the Adriatic Sea, and closest to the Aegean Sea. Conquered by many different peoples, it still, today, has to stay ”in between” and keep up friendly relationships with its powerful neighbors. For example with Russia, from where they get almost all of their energy – as oil.
Sofia has been an area of human habitation since at least 7000 BC. Excavations hit you in several places – this is the 4th century St George Rotunda (the oldest building in Sofia) behind some remains of Roman Serdica. All surrounded by the Presidential Palace…
”Sofia’s architecture combines a wide range of architectural styles, some of which are aesthetically incompatible. These vary from Christian Roman architecture and medieval Bulgar fortresses to Neoclassicism and prefabricated Socialist-era apartment blocks. A number of ancient Roman, Byzantine and medieval Bulgarian buildings are preserved in the centre of the city.” Wikipedia
I find it interesting to see how these clashes work. I even learned to think about them as more than that… Because, also the newer buildings, artwork and street art clash, and thus make for interesting photos.
WPC: Peek
From Michelle at WordPress – a wish for a peek…something teasing you to want more…
High up in the Bulgarian mountains you will find the door to this gem…
Leya 
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