I was…
…flying with the Cachalote again
Islas Plazas and their beautiful land iguanas were spectacular. The yellowish males are highly territorial and engage in head-butting battles to get rid of intruders. We saw two fights and the winners…took it all.
Land iguanas eat cactus fruit and other parts of the cactus, but in general they cannot climb it …instead they choose a cactus plant as their own, lie down under it and wait for a fruit to fall into their mouths…
This brave iguana had managed the impossible though…and its friends on the ground were eagerly waiting for it to drop something tasty to them…
After watching it for a while, we noticed something happening on the ground below…
…and the 100 cm long winner took it all – at least he took their place in waiting!
Before sailing with our ship, Cachalote, we went to the fishmarket in Puerto Ayora. On our way, we were constantly reminded of Darwin and his famous finches, and how repulsed he was by the marine iguanas, famously referring to them in his journal as “imps of darkness.” Personally I must say I love them both! I also love their surroundings and the way they exquisitely blend in…More than once I almost trod on them. Juan, our naturalist guide, was constantly warning us not to touch any animals here.
When we finally reached the fishmarket, we got a full blown show the next half hour!
Always aware of the importance of their precious islands – do not catch the wrong fish!
Keep the Galápagos Islands the way they are – serene and unpolluted. 200 000 tourists a year visit them. Maybe Ecuador has to slow down a bit to save this treasure for the future?
From the lushness of the Amazon we flew to Galápagos – now in the dry season. We visited 10 of the 19 islands, starting with Santa Cruz and the Charles Darwin Research Station.
I guess most people recognize this gentleman as a Giant Tortoise, but some maybe think of him as the Galápagos Tortoise or the Elephant Tortoise. Length 150 cm and weight up to 250kg, and they can get very old. Of originally 14 subspecies, 10 remains. This gentleman here, might have been alive when Darwin came to the islands 1835 – just reflect upon that…
Lonesome George was very well known over the world as the last existing of his kind. Despite many efforts to save his species – the scientists failed. He died alone in 2012.
In the highland area of Santa Cruz, these giants walk and live. Not very well seen by the local farmers though, as they easily break any fence and eat 40 kg a day…
…but on the other hand they spread the seeds again back onto earth again …
These giants are not very fast…and we saw several of them along – or on – the road. There were even roadsigns to warn drivers about them.
Our guide, Juan, was a tough guy – almost military discipline – but that is needed to protect the islands and its very special wildlife. We were requested to stay in the group, only walk on the signposted paths and not move closer to the animals than 2 metres.
Most species are endemic, that is also why Darwin got easily observed material for his theories. In fact he did not visit the islands for more than 35 days – and from this came…The Origin of Species. Something that was to change the world for ever.
The research institute is very successful in breeding and releasing tortoises, iguanas and finches – among other endemic species. There was this great story of Diego, a tortoise of the hoodensis species, who 1905 was brought from Espagñola island to San Diego Zoo. He never liked it there, but stayed until 1965, when he was brought back to Santa Cruz to save his species from extinction. And he did – almost he alone! Now there are about 2000 of his offspring ”running” around on the islands! He would not be photographed though…turning his back on us all…
Freedom!
Dark and Light for Cee’s challenge – much of that in the rainforest, but also the reflections on the poles every lodge was sitting upon. Here some bats resting after their night adventures.
The very last shimmering hours at Sacha Lodge, we spent canoeing again – and finally, for the sunset over the Amazon, in a high tree tower up in a giant kapok tree.
Let us start with the canoe ride – full up with fresh food and ready for the last adventure!
Finally we reached the last path, hiking to the old kapok tree.
Slowly the sun was fading and the light smoothened out both the landscape and the minds of us six friends sitting in the kapok tree. Each one in his own world…knowing this was the last day, the last hours of our great adventure. The Amazon saying its goodbyes…and us contemplating life’s beauty, in this moment in time
No words needed – only the sounds of the rainforest. A sadness and a joy, a thankfulness and a hope for this wonder to survive, to be given to our children and grandchildren.
In the early morning, we left this Paradise. Of course it showed its most glorious face this day – for us to treasure and to keep in our hearts.
Sacha Lodge will go on helping the locals with free water taxi, school supplies and a medical assistance program – and ecotourism to positively influence the course of land management in the area.
On reaching the Napo River again – a tiny, but clear rainbow appeared in the sky –
I want to thank you all, readers, followers, everyone who finds joy in my posts – it is you who make me tick…I hope to see you again next year – 2017. All the best!
Resilient – well, the crocodile species outlived the dinosaurs, and their relative, the caiman ”Lucy”, lived under our breakfast lodge in the rainforest. She might survive us all…
A foggy morning, but no wind, only the sounds of the rainforest and the river. After a divine breakfast at the lodge by the lake, we started off early heading for the parrot lick.
Unfortunately the traffic on the Napo River also brings long vehicles for the oil business here…They told us that the oil people are building a road across the Amazon forest. We had read about it, but now we could even see the trailers and the flames. This just makes me feel so helpless…Their government had promised not to give in to big business – but money always wins over nature and our life on this beautiful planet. So far. Maybe one day, when everything is dead and gone…
Finally the fog lifted, and we could admire the parakeets using the clay to neutralize the poisonous metals in their food. Notice the one hanging upside down!
We continued canoeing to a village on the other side of the river. Here a women’s collective worked to inform about the old ways of living, the life of the Amazon indigenous people and of their cooking, art and craft.
Back to the lodge for some lunch – and then on to our next adventure!
Leya 
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